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Enchanted by Surigao del Sur’s Tinuy-an Falls

When his international friends messaged him of their pending visit to Mindanao, John Ryan Mendoza recommended that they experience Surigao del Sur for the first time together, considering that not much of the province has been tackled in international travel books. When they visited, they then discovered Tinuy-An Falls, the supposed “Niagara Falls of the Philippines”.

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Tinuy-An Falls2

Tinuy-An Falls3I live and work in the northern and central part of Mindanao. What I know of the eastern side of the island was that it is always at the frontline of the Pacific Ocean typhoons and thus one of the poorer areas in the island with quite long and difficult roads. All the same, the word of mouth from fellow Mindanaoans of the less explored white beaches, enchanting rivers, and majestic waterfalls has always gone around.

And so, when my German friends messaged me of their visit to Mindanao, I just have to suggest that we experience Surigao del Sur for the first time together. As expected, not much of the province has been tackled in international travel books.

We decided to see the Tinuy-an Falls in Bislig, a city known as the “Booming City by the Bay” in Surigao del Sur.

We started our Surigao del Sur expedition from Davao City. At the Ecoland Bus Terminal, we were offered two transport options: the eight to nine hour non-airconditioned bus trip directly to Brgy. Mangagoy, Bislig City’s commercial and trade center (155 pesos) or the five hour airconditioned bus trip to San Francisco, Agusan del Sur and a transfer to a two to three hour non-airconditioned bus or van trip to Bislig. It was a hot and sunny day from Davao and the five hour cooler San Francisco route was the better option for us.

We arrived at Brgy. Mangagoy in Bislig in a van and were welcomed by a crowd of motorcycle drivers to take us to our lodging and were offering trip bookings to the Tinuy-an falls and the Enchanted River. We agreed to pay 1,500 pesos for each (Dolfo – 09078660659 and Glen – 09078282567) that could carry two to three passengers to both places for a whole day.

We spent the night at the Paper Country Inn at 800 pesos for a double bed airconditioned room with private CR and hot shower.

We left early the next morning on single motorcycles that took 40 minutes to arrive in Sitio Sote, Brgy. Burboanan. Locals advise to see the falls between 9 am to 11 am to see rainbows form among the white water curtains.

The Tinuy-an falls is considered as sacred by the Manobo Tribal Council of Sote because it is part of the 13,000 hectare of the ancestral domain of the Manobos and it has provided their forefathers and the present generation with a bountiful catch of fish and other freshwater necessities. The Manobos request that all guests share the same respect that they give to the grand falls.

Spanning 95 meters wide, standing at 55 meters (180 feet) high, and cascading in three tiers, Tinuy-an Falls is said to be the widest waterfall in the country and touted as the Niagara Falls of the Philippines. The surrounding century old trees, ferns and thick shrubbery give you a feel of being in a hidden paradise.

An entrance fee of 50 pesos is charged per person and if you have your own vehicle a 20 peso parking fee is also charged. Aside from the falls, the area offers other amenities for different needs. At the picnic grounds, umbrella sheds can be rented for 150 pesos, a table with four chairs for 100 pesos and 10 pesos for each additional chair, and small and big cottages can be rented out for 200 and 300 pesos respectively. A function hall can also be rented for 1,000 pesos per day.

When swimming, life jackets can be rented for 30 pesos for the whole day. For a closer view of the falls, bamboo rafts can be rented from 100 to 150 pesos.

Options are also available for those who want to spend the night. A room good for 10 persons can be rented at 1,800 pesos a night. For couples, rooms can be rented at 600 pesos a night.

We spent the whole morning swimming the cool waters, climbing the three tiers of the falls, seeing the lush surrounding forest from above, and just lounging at the waterside while enjoying the gentle mists of water from the cascades. At noontime we proceeded to the Enchanted River.

In Visayan, “Tinuy-an” means “a place you’ll keep going back.” It may be a little far for most, but these majestic falls surely lives up to its name.

A registered nurse he may be, but Cagayan de Oro City-based John Ryan Nual Mendoza is an ardent believer of holistic living - as such, he advocates, for instance and among others, the use not only of Western approaches to healing, but also of the more traditional methodologies that may be learned from the hilot, babaylan, et cetera. As he said, in life, "why be limited, when you can have a more full/complete life by embracing just about everything?"

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Checking Cavite’s Lolo Claro’s

It claims to sell over 400 pieces of #friedchicken per day, so Lolo Claro’s must be good, no? We checked the former mami house turned restaurant in #Cavite during a quick #LGBT wandering.

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So… if a resto claims to sell as many as 400 fried chickens a day, you’re bound to think that what they have may be really good. So we checked Lolo Claro’s Restaurant in Cavite City, one of those restos that can claim that it was built by, yep, friend chicken.

How was Lolo Claro’s Restaurant for us?

@outragemag It claims to sell over 400 pcs of #friedchicken per day, so #LoloClaros in #Cavite must be good, no? We #LGBT checked this former #mami house turned #restaurant ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Una, as background, this place is somewhat historical. Started over 25 years ago by Bernie Ilagan in honor of his late kutsero (horse carriage driver) grandfather, it used to just be a food stall that sold mami, among others, but eventually grew to have multiple branches.

Ikalawa, the branch we visited was easy to find, as it’s along a major road in Cavite City. Yeah, public transport passed the area. And there’s ample open-air parking for those with private vehicles.

Ikatlo, the resto is luma (antiquated). This should also serve as a warning since there, tabletops are peeling, corners are soiled, walls have who-knows-what prints, and so on. The squeamish may say it borders on… dirty, and they won’t be completely wrong.

Ika-apat, the staff was perfunctory – e.g. you have to pester them to clean a table for you, or follow-up an order, et cetera.

Ikalima, how were the offerings?

  1. Claro’s Fried Chicken (₱275 for half, ₱475 for whole) was similar to Max’s chicken – e.g. not that big and not over-fried, but not that tasty and quite dry.
  2. The chopsuey (₱290) was… peculiar. Think deconstructed, and you’d have an idea of their version – i.e. the veggies were steamed or boiled, and the sauce was just poured on top before serving. Good for those who just like steamed veggies; but for those who want chopsuey the traditional way, this isn’t gonna please you.
  3. The kare-kare (₱360) needed more oomph; kulang sa lasa. But at least you get enough laman, from the meat slices to the veggies. And yeah, the bagoong (shrimp paste) was good… even if they didn’t serve a lot.

Lolo Claro’s Restaurant was packed when we visited; we actually had to wait for a table to be vacated before we could eat. So this is a popular resto, indeed. I can’t, and won’t, justify this; to each his own. But we have reservations… with the venue, the staff, the food… And so off we go in search of more lafangan venues…

Lolo Claro’s Restaurant is located at Governor’s Drive corner Naic Indang Road, Cavite City.

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Coffee-craving with rice meals on the side at Foam Coffee

The search for a good cup of coffee is what led us to Foam Coffee, which – it must be pointed out – is more of a resto than a café.

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Baguio City has always been a must-visit place for foodies, thanks to the many culinary offerings from the Cordillera region (think pinikpikan, etag and binaod, among others). But – whether you agree with us or not, particularly since you may know some venues we don’t – one of the biggest challenges we encountered was looking for good kape.

The search for a good cup of coffee is what led us to Foam Coffee, which – it must be pointed out – is more of a resto than a café.

So, how was our visit to Foam Coffee?

@outragemag Looking for #kape in #FoamCoffee in #Baguio, only to end up eating not-cheap #ricemeals ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Una, this is easy to locate, as it’s right across the city hall of Baguio.

Ikalawa, the place itself is sterile-looking. Yep, maaliwalas siya (it’s airy), newly-furnished, is clean, and so on. But when we were there, it also felt quite impersonal, and didn’t feel like a community café or something.

Ikatlo, this is a self-service and CLAYGO (clean as you go) venue. Meaning, you won’t really engage with the staff as they’re there just to take and then give you your order, and then clean up after you if you failed to follow the CLAYGO policy. This adds to the making of this place as impersonal.

And ika-apat, how were the offerings?

So… the original intent was to grab coffee since this was repeatedly highly ranked by reviewers. Alas, the ₱120 Americano was, to start, not even that warm anymore when served. And taste-wise, it was almost like it was watered down.

The rice meals that we ended up also trying were actually not bad. The ₱230 Orange Chicken (orange-glazed chicken with rice) tasted… orangey, sweetish and yet citrusy. The ₱270 Bulgogi Tapa (thinly sliced Korean beef that’s marinated in sweet and salty soy in garlic butter, with rice and eggs), meanwhile, was sweet and savory. The rice in both dishes was good, too; flavorful so that even sans the toppings, already a meal.

For us, if there’s one issue with the rice meals, it’s the size of the servings. Particularly the ulam (viand). You will not get a lot. Which, for us, makes this place a somewhat pricey silog-like venue.

Foam Coffee has a market – e.g. check those who study while there. This is understandable even with the place’s limits. But we’re off elsewhere… perhaps in search of good coffee, as businesses should have if they use the word in their business name.

So off we go in search of more lafangan venues…

Foam Coffee is located at Upper G/F Travelite Hotel, Shuntug St., Baguio City. For more information, contact 0977 602 3750.

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Faith, fanaticism, and everything in between in Manaoag

The Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Manaoag, also known as the Manaoag Church, is quite popular, attracting over 5.73 million visitors in 2024 alone. We #LGBT checked while in search of faith…

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The Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Manaoag, also known as the Manaoag Church, is quite popular, attracting over 5.73 million visitors in 2024 alone. But this should not be surprising since this Roman Catholic church in Pangasinan isn’t just a religious site, but is also valuable culturally and artistically.

Here are some observations from us.

@outragemag #LGBT and looking for #faith in #manaoagchurch in #Pangasinan ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Una, placed under the jurisdiction of the Archdiocese of Lingayen-Dagupan, this place is historical. The original shrine was founded in 1600, with construction of the church started in 1882 and completed around 1911-12.

Ikalawa, there are must-check architectural features – e.g. the central retablo, completed by the Tampinco Atelier of Manila incorporates Baroque columns from the 18th-century altar.

Ikatlo, the late Pope Francis raised the shrine to the status of a Minor Basilica in 2014. This means that it has a special bond with the Pope.

Ika-apat, it is home to the statue of Our Lady of Manaoag, a 17th-century ivory and silver image of the Virgin Mary with the child Jesus. This was brought to the Philippines from Spain via the Manila galleon trade from Acapulco, Mexico by one Padre Juan de San Jacinto.

Miracles attributed to Our Lady of Manaoag are numerous – e.g. the church being saved from the Japanese attacks during World War III, rain during droughts, and so on. Some of these miracles are depicted in murals in the church.

And ika-lima, there are manifestations of the merging of pre-Christian with Roman Catholic beliefs. Outside the church, for instance, there are vendors selling the Sto. Niño with that big phallus, lucky charms along with those anting-anting, and gayuma sold in brown bottles.

No matter the appeal, this isn’t for everyone. For instance, the commercialization of faith is quite blatant (such as the selling of those merch), and it could be a real turn-off. Also, security can be O.A. tight – e.g. there may be times when this could feel unwelcoming, such as when the security guy approached us to enumerate what’s allowed or not allowed inside the establishment. Jesus himself, I’d say, could be questioned in churches like this because of how he looked and how he acted.

But if in the area, you may want to drop by. Particularly since the locality does not have much to offer touristy-wise anyway. Your search for faith can be your key to discovering this historical, artistic and… yeah, religious gem.

The Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Manaoag is located on M. H. del Pilar Street, Manaoag, 2430 Pangasinan.

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