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The Hinatuan enchantment

John Ryan Mendoza explores an enchanting part of Surigao del Sur: Hinatuan. While going for a swim, he recalls that “when you lie on your back to float, you find yourself surrounded by palm trees and indigenous plants, and if you dive below with goggles or with your eyes open, a deep cave entrance could be found and different fish swim undeterred by swimmers.”

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Finding Hinatuan

It was at noontime when me and my friends left Tinuy-an Falls to head to the Enchanted River in the small but resilient fishing town of Hinatuan, Surigao del Sur, the usual entry point of the Pacific typhoons during the rainy months. The cool sea winds kept us comfortable under the scorching noon sun on our 21 km backride on a habal-habal (retrofitted single motorcycle).

Hinatuan enchantment2Other options in going to Hinatuan from Brgy. Mangagoy, Bislis is the bus going to Butuan City which takes an hour for 50 pesos; or the local jeepney from Mangagoy Jeepney Terminal to Hinatuan Jeepney Terminal, which takes an hour and a half for 35 pesos and get off at Dugmanon Junction and transfer to a habal-habal going to the Enchanted River at 50 pesos per way per person.

When we arrived in Brgy. Cambatong (30 minutes away from the Hinatuan center), our motorcycles stopped in front of a row of wooden stalls of local fisherfolk selling fresh seaweeds, fish, shrimps, crabs and lobsters. The fresh seafood can be cooked for you, usually at 20 pesos per kilogram. They gave us a block of wood with a number to identify us in the tables in the picnic cottage

Everyone pays an entrance fee of 30 pesos.

When we settled in our table, we saw the crowd come up from below. We overheard that we just missed the fish feeding at 12:00 noon where a caretaker would ring a bell to signal everyone to get out of the water. The “Hymn of Hinatuan” is then played and fishes from the deep cave below would surface. The caretaker and tourists would throw cooked rice and minced octopus meat, which you could buy single packets for less than 50 pesos.

After enjoying our lunch feast of steamed crabs, shrimps, grilled fish, and beer, we then dipped into the enchanting display of crystal clear aquamarine and deep blue waters. A portion of the placid brackish river has been transformed into a kiddie pool.

My friend who is a local from Bislig joked that this river was just a place where women came to wash clothes and now it is one big tourist spot. Nevertheless, she herself was in awe.

When you lie on your back to float, you find yourself surrounded by palm trees and indigenous plants and if you dive below with goggles or just eyes open, a deep cave entrance could be found and different fish swim undeterred by swimmers. Divers who have attempted to explore have only reached 87 meters deep into the underwater cave.

Life vests can be rented at 100 pesos each, and lifeguards can be seen around the area. They not only watch out for people drowning but also for those who are smoking. Smoking is prohibited inside the area around the Enchanted River.

At 3:00 PM, bell was again rung to signal fish feeding. Everyone went out of the water and awaited the caretaker’s cue to throw the fish food for the huge fishes to feast on.

One of the caretakers offered us the river cruise that would take us to the neighboring islands. The cruise costs at 160 pesos per hour for a maximum of five people.

The fishing boat took us to through the Sibadan Fish cage where fishes are cultured un the middle of the see. Guests can do fishing here and rooms are available during brief stopovers.

The next stop was the Pangasinan White Island that boasts fine golden sand and a burial cave during the Spanish period. Rooms are also available for overnight stays.

The other destination we didn’t have enough time for is the Tinago River and islands, a group of unexploited islets which the locals claimed will be soon developed to become a honeymooners’ paradise. It would take an hour to get there by boat.

We got back from boating at 5:00 PM already when the Enchanted River is closed. No one was in the river anymore and one couldn’t just help but marvel at the stillness and mystical vibe of the clear blue waters.

Night swimming is prohibited as the locals believe that it is the time for the nature spirits to dwell in the river.

We rode back to our habal-habals to our hotel in Mangagoy and we all left the river utterly enchanted.

A registered nurse he may be, but Cagayan de Oro City-based John Ryan Nual Mendoza is an ardent believer of holistic living - as such, he advocates, for instance and among others, the use not only of Western approaches to healing, but also of the more traditional methodologies that may be learned from the hilot, babaylan, et cetera. As he said, in life, "why be limited, when you can have a more full/complete life by embracing just about everything?"

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Coffee-craving with rice meals on the side at Foam Coffee

The search for a good cup of coffee is what led us to Foam Coffee, which – it must be pointed out – is more of a resto than a café.

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Baguio City has always been a must-visit place for foodies, thanks to the many culinary offerings from the Cordillera region (think pinikpikan, etag and binaod, among others). But – whether you agree with us or not, particularly since you may know some venues we don’t – one of the biggest challenges we encountered was looking for good kape.

The search for a good cup of coffee is what led us to Foam Coffee, which – it must be pointed out – is more of a resto than a café.

So, how was our visit to Foam Coffee?

@outragemag Looking for #kape in #FoamCoffee in #Baguio, only to end up eating not-cheap #ricemeals ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Una, this is easy to locate, as it’s right across the city hall of Baguio.

Ikalawa, the place itself is sterile-looking. Yep, maaliwalas siya (it’s airy), newly-furnished, is clean, and so on. But when we were there, it also felt quite impersonal, and didn’t feel like a community café or something.

Ikatlo, this is a self-service and CLAYGO (clean as you go) venue. Meaning, you won’t really engage with the staff as they’re there just to take and then give you your order, and then clean up after you if you failed to follow the CLAYGO policy. This adds to the making of this place as impersonal.

And ika-apat, how were the offerings?

So… the original intent was to grab coffee since this was repeatedly highly ranked by reviewers. Alas, the ₱120 Americano was, to start, not even that warm anymore when served. And taste-wise, it was almost like it was watered down.

The rice meals that we ended up also trying were actually not bad. The ₱230 Orange Chicken (orange-glazed chicken with rice) tasted… orangey, sweetish and yet citrusy. The ₱270 Bulgogi Tapa (thinly sliced Korean beef that’s marinated in sweet and salty soy in garlic butter, with rice and eggs), meanwhile, was sweet and savory. The rice in both dishes was good, too; flavorful so that even sans the toppings, already a meal.

For us, if there’s one issue with the rice meals, it’s the size of the servings. Particularly the ulam (viand). You will not get a lot. Which, for us, makes this place a somewhat pricey silog-like venue.

Foam Coffee has a market – e.g. check those who study while there. This is understandable even with the place’s limits. But we’re off elsewhere… perhaps in search of good coffee, as businesses should have if they use the word in their business name.

So off we go in search of more lafangan venues…

Foam Coffee is located at Upper G/F Travelite Hotel, Shuntug St., Baguio City. For more information, contact 0977 602 3750.

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Faith, fanaticism, and everything in between in Manaoag

The Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Manaoag, also known as the Manaoag Church, is quite popular, attracting over 5.73 million visitors in 2024 alone. We #LGBT checked while in search of faith…

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The Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Manaoag, also known as the Manaoag Church, is quite popular, attracting over 5.73 million visitors in 2024 alone. But this should not be surprising since this Roman Catholic church in Pangasinan isn’t just a religious site, but is also valuable culturally and artistically.

Here are some observations from us.

@outragemag #LGBT and looking for #faith in #manaoagchurch in #Pangasinan ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Una, placed under the jurisdiction of the Archdiocese of Lingayen-Dagupan, this place is historical. The original shrine was founded in 1600, with construction of the church started in 1882 and completed around 1911-12.

Ikalawa, there are must-check architectural features – e.g. the central retablo, completed by the Tampinco Atelier of Manila incorporates Baroque columns from the 18th-century altar.

Ikatlo, the late Pope Francis raised the shrine to the status of a Minor Basilica in 2014. This means that it has a special bond with the Pope.

Ika-apat, it is home to the statue of Our Lady of Manaoag, a 17th-century ivory and silver image of the Virgin Mary with the child Jesus. This was brought to the Philippines from Spain via the Manila galleon trade from Acapulco, Mexico by one Padre Juan de San Jacinto.

Miracles attributed to Our Lady of Manaoag are numerous – e.g. the church being saved from the Japanese attacks during World War III, rain during droughts, and so on. Some of these miracles are depicted in murals in the church.

And ika-lima, there are manifestations of the merging of pre-Christian with Roman Catholic beliefs. Outside the church, for instance, there are vendors selling the Sto. Niño with that big phallus, lucky charms along with those anting-anting, and gayuma sold in brown bottles.

No matter the appeal, this isn’t for everyone. For instance, the commercialization of faith is quite blatant (such as the selling of those merch), and it could be a real turn-off. Also, security can be O.A. tight – e.g. there may be times when this could feel unwelcoming, such as when the security guy approached us to enumerate what’s allowed or not allowed inside the establishment. Jesus himself, I’d say, could be questioned in churches like this because of how he looked and how he acted.

But if in the area, you may want to drop by. Particularly since the locality does not have much to offer touristy-wise anyway. Your search for faith can be your key to discovering this historical, artistic and… yeah, religious gem.

The Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Manaoag is located on M. H. del Pilar Street, Manaoag, 2430 Pangasinan.

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In an airy Baguio café via Rebel Bakehouse

When you check lists of places for foodies, many of the same venues are mentioned… and one of those is Rebel Bakehouse. We checked if it’s worth a try.

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Baguio City has become a must-visit location for those looking for good – or at least well-promoted – restaurants. But we noted that when you check lists of places for foodies, many of the same venues are mentioned… and one of those is Rebel Bakehouse.

We checked the branch right beside the Baguio Cathedral of Our Lady of Atonement, and… how was it for us?

@outragemag #LGBT checking #RebelBakehouse in #Baguio to ascertain if it's a good alternative to #starbucks, #CBTL ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Una, the place is tricky to find… at least for non-churchgoers. We actually thought it’s in some street parallel to the church; instead, it’s actually right inside the church’s compound.

Ikalawa, if there’s a word to describe the venue, it’s maaliwalas (airy). The venue is divided into spots – e.g. there’s the upper floor, the inside, and the seats outside. Since Baguio City can still get cool, or even cold, open-air din siya, though this also means that flies from outside can (and do) enter the premises.

Ikatlo, the workers are chill. If asked, they can elaborate on what’s being offered; otherwise, if you don’t engage with them, they’re typical café staff… there but not there.

Ika-apat, how was the food? TBH, since we just came from a heavy meal, we just tried some of their breads and drinks.

  1. The Classic Pain Au Chocolat (₱150) and the Cinnamon Bun (₱180) looked pretty, easily reminding me, personally, of breads in some bakery in Paris. But… taste-wise, they’re not remarkable. We’d go as far as saying that they both tasted the same… just like croissant. The dark chocolate inside the former was, at least, good; but the cinnamon was not even apparent in the latter.
  2. The kape (₱110), served black, was so-so. I – sadly – really can’t even remember drinking it.

We’re not sure the way to beat Starbucks or Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf is to mimic them. Which is how being in Rebel Bakehouse felt like; as if we were in one of the international coffee chains’ branches in Tagaytay. This isn’t to say this is bad… even considering our misgivings with the breads and kape. After all, this is still an okay, and local, option.

Perhaps if we visit again, if at all, we’d try their meals na. But until then, join us as we look for more lafangan venues…

Rebel Bakehouse is located right beside the Baguio Cathedral of Our Lady of Atonement, at CH6X+WM4, Upper Bonifacio St., Baguio City.

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