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Beauty & Fashion

Second Look at Leather

Many call for the non-use of leather because it isn’t exactly green. An alternative perspective is forwarded, however – i.e. seeing leather as a by-product that will just go to waste if not used.

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By PePe Castro

By-products. That, says Filipino shoe manufacturer and retailer giant Manels owner Manuel Siggaoat, are what they are. He is talking about leather, of course.

“This (industry) makes use of by-products that (if not used, will) just go to waste,” he says. That, by the way, is not an excuse – Siggaoat is, actually, being truthful.

Leather is a material created through the tanning of hides and skins of animals, primarily cattlehide, uses raw materials that are by-products of the meat industry, with the meat having higher value than the skin. Leather – like fur – is actually a sore point for many, err, (non-consumers of meat) animal lovers, largely because it necessitates the slaughter of a living being in order to produce it. The People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), an animal rights activist group, among others, consider the use of “all leather items (from animal hides) is unnecessary and cruel in today’s society.”

And so the debate continues on the pros and cons of leather, and leather use.

FASH ITEMS

Manels, of course, has been a leading player in the local leathergoods market since 1964. Manels – a play at the names of owners Manuel and Nelia Siggaoat – started out as a small shoe store near the Philippine Women’s University, where Nelia worked, soon proving to be lucrative so that the husband and wife tandem decided to leave their careers to focus on their new business. Nelia’s artistic vision found a medium in the design and manufacture of these shoes and bags. Manuel, on the other hand, focused on building the business side.

Over 40 years later, Manels has diversified – in 2004, Siggaoat’s son, Mark Siggaoat, spearheaded the establishment of LapDance (lapdancebag.com), a company supplying laptop (and similar gadgets) casings.

“It’s a niche market,” the younger Siggaoat says, adding that, initially, “it was a hard (market to break into) when we started.”
Not, worth noting, because of anti-leather sentiments.

The sales picked up, though, and have been up since 2006.

Early in 2009, LapDance started selling products using ostrich leather.

In an interview, the older Siggaoat notes how, in the case of ostriches in particular, “ostriches are now grown locally (aside from getting imported) for their meat,” he says. Interestingly, in many cases, only ostrich meat is harvested – in fact, in the Philippines, tanning ostrich skin is not practiced.

There, therefore, is produced “waste” – effectively turned into leather.

LapDance currently usually comes out with eight to 10 new designs per season, the products costing from P1,800 to over P3,000 apiece.

And, oh, the leather is but a component of the design – other materials used are fibers, among others, just as the company is also studying the use of faux (fake) leather to “make the products more marketable.”

GOING ALL-NATURAL

For those opposing the use of leather, it isn’t just the slaughter of animals (a living thing) that ruffles their feathers, so to speak – it is also how the tanning process that the hide has to go through which, it is worth noting, can be harmful to the environment. Tanning, the process that makes the leather (which does not easily decompose) from the skins of animals (or rawhide, which decomposes easily) after permanently altering its protein structure, often makes use of such chemicals as: sodium sulfide, sodium hydroxide, sodium hydrosulfite, arsenic sulfide, calcium hydrosulfide, dimethyl amine, sodium sulphydrate, and, yes, tannin – all of them, aside from emitting toxic fumes, may (if/when not properly disposed of) contaminating air and water.

In theory, choosing not to use (not just buy) leather products should be easy – after all, the alternatives now abound. Among others, there are the artificial leather (fabric with leather finish, popularly used as upholstery), synthetic leather or pleather (this one, however, is also hotly discussed, since it is often made from plastic, another hot point for environmentalists), vegan leather (made from fibers that are animal-friendly – though even this uses some PVC, deemed harmful to the environment).

A bigger issue is in the availability of the products – in the Philippines, for example, alternatives are not as widely available.

REALISTIC APPROACH

Michael Bloch, editor of greenlivingtips.com, has a more realistic approach.

“What’s a leather lover to do? Firstly, we need to look at our consumption – do we really need 10 pairs of leather shoes, five wallets or eight handbags? Every leather item you don’t buy mean less toxic waste entering into the environment and, perhaps, an animal not killed – you’ll save some cash as well,” Bloch says.

Yet another way to approach the issue is to “reduce our associated impact by asking companies where they source their leather – if it’s outside ‘developed’ countries, assume the worst,” Bloch adds.

For the moneyed, though, opting to buy only the green should always be considered – if not locally available, the order from overseas.
But for now, on leather, pleather, vegan leather, imitation leather, or… whatever? The choice remains yours – choose wisely.

Believing that everyone's perspective is important, Zest Magazine has opted to provide an avenue for these perspectives to be known. care to hear the publication's contributing writers; or better yet, do some contributing yourself by contacting info@zestmag.com.

Beauty & Fashion

niko and … brings Evangelion Collection to the PH, plans to expand its operations

The Evangelion collection is available starting December 12 at the niko and … where it is transformed into an Evangelion-themed space with curated displays, and anniversary elements, allowing fans and new audiences to experience the world of Evangelion.

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Lifestyle brand niko and … brought the Evangelion brand to Manila just in time for the celebration of anime Neon Genesis Evangelion’s 30th anniversary, with collection available for a limited time only. Launched at SM Mall of Asia, the limited edition collection showcases style, nostalgia, and Japanese creativity and contents that fit the taste of the Filipino consumers.

“Filipino consumers value design, story, and creativity,” says Daisuke Fujii, president and CEO of Adastria. “We see strong interest in Japanese culture and the ideas behind it. This collaboration is our way of celebrating Evangelion’s legacy while showing what we hope to build here. We want to grow with the market and bring more of our brands and experiences to the Philippines.”

The Evangelion collection is available starting December 12 at the niko and … where it is transformed into an Evangelion-themed space with curated displays, and anniversary elements, allowing fans and new audiences to experience the world of Evangelion.

The brand’s collection reflects Japanese craftsmanship, attention to detail, and an ability to translate cultural ideas into modern lifestyle item. This gives customers access to the latest trends from Japan through apparel, accessories, room items, and collaborative lines that bend creativity with everyday function.

Although it just recently started in the Philippines, Fujii said the brand is looking to expand its local operations by opening more stores and introducing other products or brands in the Philippines.

Banking on the strength of the collaboration and the Japanese creativity to grow its business, Fujii noted that he wants the SM MOA branch to cover a lot of animes and other contents. “We want to bring contents that fit the taste of Filipino consumers. Next year, we will expand by opening new stores. We are now talking to SM, Ayala Malls, and looking for other good locations.”

When Fujii was asked how the Evangelion collaboration influence the lifestyle and fashion trends in the Philippines. He replied, “The collaboration is one way to introduce the Japanese culture to the Philippines. Animes make Filipino consumers know more about Japan and its culture. We want them to understand Japanese culture through fashion trends.”

Fujii also clarified that not all products are manufactured in Japan because they have factories across the world that produce other products but “of course, it is of Japanese quality.”

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Beauty & Fashion

Renting clothes for sustainable fashion – niche markets work best

The best chance of success is for a rental company to provide clothing within a niche market, such as specific sportswear, and to work closely with the suppliers and clothing manufacturers.

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Renting clothes can reduce the fashion industry’s enormous environmental impact, but so far, the business models have not worked very well. The best chance of success is for a rental company to provide clothing within a niche market, such as specific sportswear, and to work closely with the suppliers and clothing manufacturers. This is shown by a study led by researchers at Chalmers University of Technology, Sweden, which highlights the measures that can make clothing rental a success.

The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries and can account for up to ten percent of global greenhouse gas emissions, worldwide. In Sweden, over 90 percent of the clothes’ climate impact is linked to the purchase of newly produced goods. Therefore, researchers at Chalmers University of Technology, the University of Borås and the research institute Rise have examined alternative, more sustainable business models for the clothing industry.

“Many people have clothes hanging in the closet that are rarely or never used. Renting clothes can extend the use of each garment and thus contribute to more sustainable consumption,” says Frida Lind, Professor at Chalmers and one of the researchers behind the study.

In the study, the researchers analysed nine Swedish companies that have either tried and failed, or are ongoing in the process of creating a sustainable and desirable clothes rental company. From this analysis, the researchers identified three main business models for renting out clothes:

1. Membership model: customers become members and can then borrow clothes for a certain period of time, similar to a library. This model often had an enthusiast as its founder, with a focus on sustainable consumption.

2. Subscription model: customers pay a monthly fee to rent a certain number of garments. These startups worked on scaling up operations and attracting venture capital.

3. Individual rental model: the company would provide specific types of clothing to rent out, often in combination with other equipment, such as outdoor clothing paired with ski equipment.

Difficult to achieve profitability

By interviewing founders, managers and other key people from the nine Swedish companies, the researchers gained an understanding of each company’s situation.

“What struck us was that it seemed so difficult for them to make their business profitable. Several had had to end their investments for various reasons,” she says.

The researchers noted that although there was a willing customer base for renting clothing in this way, they observed several other challenges that made it difficult for companies to achieve profitability.

“Renting out clothes involves many steps where each item of clothing needs to be handled and inspected before it can be rented out again, which takes time. Companies also struggled with high costs for warehousing, logistics and laundry, for example. Especially for the subscription models, there were also difficulties in obtaining venture capital to be able to survive financially through the first phase of building the company. All this shows that these business models need time to establish themselves in the market,” she says.

Specific markets performed best

At the same time, some of the business models worked better than others. Companies that focused on a specific market, such as outdoor clothing, were more successful and sustainable. Especially if they also had a local connection to an outdoor recreational area.

“They seem to have found their niche and seen that there is a specific need that the customer is willing to pay for each time they need to use that type of clothing,” says Frida Lind.

The researchers also examined how the companies created value in collaboration with different stakeholders and concluded that certain collaborations were particularly valuable.

“Rental companies that worked closely with clothing manufacturers and suppliers, such as designers with a sustainability profile, benefited greatly from this as they were able to quickly get feedback on which types of clothing were most popular. They also gained valuable information about the quality of the garments, for example if there was something that often broke,” she says.

Initiatives for change important

In the current study, the researchers have not investigated the environmental and climate impact of the business models specifically, but in general, the environmental effects of our clothes have already been well mapped. For example, previous research from Chalmers has shown that the actual production of garments accounts for 70 percent of the climate impact of Swedes’ clothes throughout their life cycle, and 22 percent of the climate impact is caused by customers’ shopping trips. In the European Union, five million tonnes of clothing are discarded each year – around 12 kilos per person, and in the USA, the average American generates 37 kilos of textile waste each year.

Frida Lind believes that there is a great deal of room for environmental benefits through reduced clothing purchases and extended use of existing garments – especially if it can be done without extra car journeys for consumers. 

She emphasises that even if some of the companies and services in the study have not survived, all initiatives that can contribute to the sustainability transition are important. Not least because they help to change attitudes about clothing consumption and increase knowledge about what can and cannot work.

“Our study can be an important contribution to the fashion industry’s sustainability transition, as it shows the possibilities of new business models in this industry. We hope that it can have an impact on decision-makers who need a basis for establishing incentives and financial motivation for a more sustainable fashion industry. Because we see that new and more sustainable business models require time and a long-term perspective to be able to establish themselves,” she says.

Recommendations for the industry

Based on the study’s results, the researchers give a number of recommendations to those who intend to try renting clothes as a business model:

  • Focus on niche markets based on target group and product type where the need is clear
  • Develop partnerships with suppliers to improve products based on rental experiences.
  • Think about logistics and transport in the rental model right from the start to be able to get the model scalable.

More about the research

The scientific article Exploring renting models for clothing items – resource interaction for value creation” was published in the Journal of Business & Industrial Marketing. The authors are Frida Lind, Chalmers University of Technology, Agnes Andersson Wänström and Daniel Hjelmgren, University of Borås, and Maria Landqvist, Rise. The study has been financed with funds from the Swedish Energy Agency.

Facts and advice about textile consumption

  • In the European Union, five million tonnes of clothing are discarded each year – around 12 kilos per person, and in the USA, the average American generates 37 kilos of textile waste each year.
  • Over 90 percent of the total climate impact from Swedish clothing consumption is linked to the purchase of newly produced clothes, and 80 percent of our clothes’ climate impact occurs during the production phase.
  • It also plays a big role how customers get to the stores. If they walk or cycle instead of driving, they reduce their climate impact by over 10 percent.
  • The most important thing that consumers can do is to extend the use of the garments that have already been produced. A t-shirt, for example, is used an average of 30 times. If it is instead used 60 times before it is replaced by a newly produced t-shirt, the climate impact can be halved.
  • Extended use can mean that one owner uses the garment for longer, or that several users share ownership. In addition to renting or borrowing clothes, this can be done, for example, by shopping and selling second-hand, arranging clothes swap days or giving away clothes to someone who continues to use them.
  • A previous Chalmers study has shown that the actual production of garments accounts for 70 percent of the climate impact of Swedes’ clothes throughout their life cycle. 22 per cent of the climate impact is caused by customers’ shopping trips, 4 per cent by distribution to customers and 3 per cent by washing and drying clothes.
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Beauty & Fashion

Sassa opens standalone store in Festival Mall

Compared to traditional department store counters, the standalone store provides more space, better privacy, and a more relaxed shopping experience. Customers can now enjoy a wide selection of styles, with more options to mix and match. The open layout also makes it easier to try on pieces and do personal styling sessions with comfort and convenience.

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Located on the Upper Ground Floor of Festival Mall’s West Wing the store features a vibrant, modern space that showcases Sassa’s full lifestyle range—from swimwear and activewear to intimate wear. With bold blue accents, clean lighting, and organized display zones, the store offers a fresh, inviting atmosphere for every Sassa Girl.

Compared to traditional department store counters, the standalone store provides more space, better privacy, and a more relaxed shopping experience. Customers can now enjoy a wide selection of styles, with more options to mix and match. The open layout also makes it easier to try on pieces and do personal styling sessions with comfort and convenience.

For the first time, Sassa brings together all its core collections in one space—designed not just for shopping, but to create a closer, more meaningful connection with the women it was made for.

A Strategic Step Closer to Every Filipina

Recognizing the need to connect more closely with its growing community, Sassa opened its very first standalone store as a way to bring the brand experience directly to its customers—outside the usual department store setup.

“This store is more than just a physical space—it’s a statement of who we are and how far we’ve come,” shares Raiza Limpiada, Marketing & Ecommerce Manager of Sassa. “After more than two decades of being mainly found in department stores, we wanted to create a space that brings us closer to the Filipina—somewhere she can truly feel what Sassa is all about. We’re not just a local brand anymore—we’re becoming a true lifestyle partner.”

After a remarkably strong year of double-digit growth, Sassa is excited about what’s ahead with the opening of its Festival Mall store. The brand is aiming for a 40-50% boost in sales compared to its usual numbers.  More importantly, it looks forward to seeing customers spend more time exploring the space, discovering new favorites, and enjoying a more personal shopping experience—all part of Sassa’s journey to grow and connect more deeply with Filipinas in the local fashion scene.

“Our goal is simple,” Raiza adds. “We want to build real relationships, make every visit memorable, and grow alongside our customers. This store is just the beginning.”

Unveiling the Latest Retail Experience

To celebrate this milestone, Sassa hosted a grand opening event attended by brand executives and loyal fans. The festivities included a ribbon-cutting ceremony, store tours, and exclusive first-day offers—creating a memorable experience for early shoppers.

Guests enjoyed limited-time promos, gift-with-purchase deals, and a sneak peek at exclusive styles available only at the Festival Mall store—highlighting the brand’s move toward a more stylish, personalized approach.

With more standalone locations planned, Sassa Festival Mall is just the start. As the brand grows alongside its community, it remains committed to helping every Filipina feel confident and stylish—wherever they go, whatever they do, and in every aspect of their lifestyle.

Experience the Sassa difference for yourself—visit our new Festival Mall store today! Follow @sassa_ph on Instagram and @sassa.ph on Facebook and TikTok for updates.

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