Destinations
Waiting for tuna in Albay
Today, about 52% of the country’s fish exports come from tuna, which buoys the lives and livelihoods of millions of Filipinos. WWF’s Global Oceans Campaign, Sustain Our Seas, builds on decades of work to rekindle the health and productivity of the Earth’s oceans.
By Gregg Yan

A little boy admires his family boat’s sigil – a jumping Bankulis or Yellowfin Tuna. The boy’s future might very well depend on whether these oceanic giants keep on jumping.
PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES
Late afternoon and we’re holed up in a hut along the coast of Tiwi in Albay, trading fish tales and waiting for fishermen to return. Sitting around us are their wives, mending nets and eyeing the swelling crowd of kids cajoling in the surf. It is June, the season for yellowfin tuna.
The first of the bancas arrive, unloading a decent haul of pundahan or skipjack – small, striped tuna which have proven surprisingly resilient to commercial fishing. Bancas two and three return empty-handed while a fourth disgorges a tub of galunggong or scad. Just one bankulis or yellowfin tuna has been landed, hours earlier. She tipped the scales at 39 kilograms, golden sickle-fins resplendent even in death. We wait until the sun dips into the sea, but no more tuna come.
“The Lagonoy Gulf is the Bicol region’s richest tuna site – but it is heavily overfished,” explains BFAR National Stock Assessment project head Virginia Olaño. “Two decades ago, fishers regularly caught large yellowfin. In 1998, a fisherman landed a 196 kilogram giant, long as a car and fat as a drum. Now yields are waning and yellowfin average just 18 to 35 kilograms – meaning juveniles have replaced adults.”
Though yellowfin tuna are highly-prized, they are far more than mere seafood. Top predators in the marine food chain, they maintain the balance between oceanic predators and prey. “Today the Lagonoy Gulf’s most common fish are anchovies,” warns Olaño. “There aren’t enough predators to eat them – because we’ve eaten most of their predators.”
To stop overfishing and help manage existing tuna stocks in Bicol, the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), Bureau of Fisheries and Aquatic Resources (BFAR), plus the Philippine Council for Agriculture and Fisheries (PCAF) convened the first meeting of the Gulf of Lagonoy Tuna Fishers Federation (GLTFF), comprised of the coastal municipalities ringing the Lagonoy Gulf – 3070-square kilometers of sea separating the Bicol mainland from the storm-swept island of Catanduanes. Over 500 people attended Bicol’s first large-scale gathering of fishers, held at the Lagman Auditorium of Bicol University’s Tabaco Campus.
“We’ve waited three years to formalize this federation, which covers 2000 tuna fishers in the Lagonoy Gulf,” says BFAR Assistant Regional Director Marjurie Grutas. “GLTFF aims to synergize fisheries management while optimizing cooperation, knowledge-sharing and enforcement. We aim to eliminate illegal fishing, minimize the capture of juvenile tuna and drive commercial fishers away from municipal waters – the three leading causes of overfishing.”
Since 2011, WWF has been working to enhance yellowfin tuna management practices for 5000 fishers in 112 tuna fishing villages around the Lagonoy Gulf and the coast of Occidental Mindoro.
WWF’s Public Private Partnership Programme Towards Sustainable Tuna (PPTST) has since organized tuna fishing associations in all 15 municipalities in the Lagonoy Gulf, plus six LGUs in the Mindoro Strait. It spearheaded the registration and licensing of tuna fishers, vessels and gear to minimize bycatch and illegal fishing, deployed 1000 plastic tuna tags to make the fishery traceable, and completed a series of training sessions on proper tuna handling to ensure that exported tuna continually meet international quality standards.
PPTST harnesses market power and consumer demand to promote sustainably-caught tuna and support low-impact fishing methods like artisanal fishing with hand-line reels – better alternatives to commercial tuna long-lines, which stretch up to 80 kilometers and are rigged with up to 3000 baited hooks.
Funded by Coop, Bell Seafood, Seafresh and the German Investment and Development Corporation, PPTST involves European seafood companies plus their local suppliers, BFAR, local government units in the Bicol Region and Mindoro, the WWF Coral Triangle Program, WWF-Germany plus WWF-Philippines.
Today, about 52% of the country’s fish exports come from tuna, which buoys the lives and livelihoods of millions of Filipinos. WWF’s Global Oceans Campaign, Sustain Our Seas, builds on decades of work to rekindle the health and productivity of the Earth’s oceans.
“Federations like GLTFF are the resource management systems of the future,” concludes WWF-Philippines president and CEO Joel Palma while sampling maguro sashimi (thinly-cut tuna slices) sourced from the sole 39 kilogram yellowfin landed in Tiwi.
Savoring sashimi, I hope that by working to conserve their shared resource, Lagonoy Gulf’s fishers might someday herald the return of the giant bankulis. Now that fish tale should be worth the wait.

A fisherman shows off a colorful squid lure, used to entice large pelagic predators to bite.
A plethora of makeshift items – from dyed feathers and rubber squid to shredded plastic bags – are used to attract and catch tuna, billfish and mackerel.
Each fisher has his own formula: “I use a combination of rubber squid and shredded plastic lures, but my real secret is squid ink, which I tie-off in tiny plastic bags. As the lure moves, the squid ink squirts out. Fish find this irresistible,” shares Miguel Borres, a grizzled veteran.
Though gear has evolved, many fishers still rely on age-old techniques to collect their quarry.
PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

Yellowfin Tuna are so-named because of their canary yellow fins and finlets.
The torpedo-shaped fish have clocked in speeds of 75 kilometers per hour – almost TWICE the speed of the world’s fastest person, Usain Bolt!
PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

The most sought-after fish in Bicol’s Lagonoy Gulf is the Yellowfin Tuna. A fisher shows off a handsome 39-kilogramme fish.
Two decades ago, fishers caught a 196-kilogramme Yellowfin – the largest caught in the Gulf.
Classified by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) as near threatened, Yellowfin Tuna sport metallic blue backs, golden flanks and a silver belly. Sickle-shaped dorsal and anal fins, hued bright yellow, grant them their name.
They form schools with other tuna species and sometimes with dolphins. While most fish have white flesh, tuna tissue hosts loads of myoglobin, which efficiently oxygenates their systems to give tuna meat a distinctive red hue and mouth-watering texture. This is why they’re so highly sought after.
WWF works to conserve tuna stocks in the Philippines through its Partnership Programme Towards Sustainable Tuna (PPTST) project.
PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

Smaller fish such as scad and mackerel comprise the majority of fishers’ subsistence hauls.
PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

A fisherman rests after unloading his craft’s catch.
Thousands fish under the shadow of Mayon Volcano, whose rich volcanic nutrients fuel blooms of plankton – the essential base of the marine food pyramid.
PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES
Travel
Treacherous beauty: Hiking at South Stack Lighthouse in Wales
#Lighthouse fever in #Holyhead, #anglesey via the #SouthStackLighthouse, as checked during this #LGBT trip to #Wales.
Yes, tech has made many lighthouses redundant. Not that they’re no longer relevant. But navigation-wise, we know we have more advanced solutions. Which, perhaps not surprisingly, led to the reconfiguration of many of them.
In Holyhead, Anglesey in Wales, introducing the South Stack Lighthouse.
@outragemag #Lighthouse fever in #Holyhead, #anglesey via the #SouthStackLighthouse, as checked during this #LGBT trip to #Wales ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine
Una, you’d need a ride to be there. Some use private cars, as we did; others join tours; and others cycle to the place.
Ikalawa, what’s there?
The lighthouse itself is located on a small, rocky island off Holyhead. From afar, it looks like someone’s grand home; mansion-like. Accessible siya after you descend down 400 steep steps.
What will you see while there?
- the former lighthouse engine room
- the top of the lighthouse
- South Stack is also home to breeding seabirds including guillemots, razorbills and puffins
Here’s an FYI: seasonal lang siya bukas.
This is a must-check for lighthouse lovers, of course. Historic, it was built in 1809 by Trinity House from the design of Daniel Alexander. 91-foot tall, it used to allow safe passage for ships on the Dublin–Holyhead–Liverpool sea route.
Another FYI: It is allegedly haunted, and has been visited by a team from “Most Haunted”.
The area housing the lighthouse is, itself, worth checking. There are trails for hikers or joggers or cyclists; though the same could be enjoyed by those who are there only to look for good shots.
Check when you’re in the area… even if you just pass by. Nice siya, promise.
But off we go for more LGBTQIA+ rampa…
Travel
Enjoying nature via trail hiking in Wales
Enjoying nature via #trail #hiking at #Snowdonia #SnowdoniaSlateTrail during one #LGBT visit in #Gwynedd, #Wales.
When in Bangor, you’d be told often that among the best things to do is to hike. And among the must-check is the Snowdonia Slate Trail, which links the old slate-quarrying communities of Eryri/Snowdonia.
So… ayan na nga, even without the right outfit for hiking, but ayaw ma-miss ang chance to check the area, off we went.
@outragemag Enjoying nature via #trail #hiking at #Snowdonia #SnowdoniaSlateTrail during one #LGBT visit in #Gwynedd, #Wales ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine
Una, the circular route starts near Bangor/Porth Penrhyn. And you need a car or whatever to get to the starting point.
Ikalawa, the trail isn’t just for hiking. It’s also for biking or walking dogs. So you’d be sharing the 133-kilometer long trail with others.
Ikatlo, what’s there?
Mountains built by remnants from quarry sites, to start.
So… Gwynedd used to be known for slate quarrying, and among the biggest players is Penrhyn Quarry which is near Gwynedd, part of The Slate Landscape of Northwest Wales, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Now… with slate quarrying, around 75% of extracted material are inferior in quality, called overburden, and so becoming mineral waste. Here, they’re now mountains.
But the trail also shows views typically associated with Wales – e.g. rolling hills that go on forever, rock fences, sheep farms, canals with flowing water… and more.
Usually, sa matatag, people hike the Snowdonia Slate Trail for up to seven days, passing through Bethesda, Llanberis, and so on. But for others… it’s but an opportunity to commune with nature, in a way, while taking those must-have shots.
But we’re off for more LGBTQIA+ discoveries…
Destinations
Finding beauty, and not just of faith, at the Bangor Cathedral
Seeking #LGBT #faith or beauty in #Wales? Check out the #Bangor Cathedral in #Gwynedd.
A common practice among many Pinoy travelers is to visit a church, preferably Roman Catholic, in new places visited. Here’s the thing when you’re in the United Kingdom: it’s harder than you think because, while Catholics do exist, many of the churches here are of the Church of England/Anglican.
On one hand, without intending to gaslight, I often joke that it’s not like you’re praying to different gods (LOL).
But on the other hand, actually dropping by these churches can be eye-opening. Not just to faith, but seeing beauty in their richness… in history, architecture, and so on…
At least this is what was gleaned in the Bangor Cathedral in Wales.
@outragemag Seeking #LGBT #faith or beauty in #Wales? Check out the #Bangor Cathedral in #Gwynedd ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine
Una, if you’re in Gwynedd, this is very accessible. It’s there, in the middle of the oldest city in Wales. But if you’re from elsewhere, you need to travel to the city that’s over three hours away from London.
Ikalawa, this is formally St. Deiniol’s Cathedral, which has been used since about the 6th century.
As FYI: St. Deiniol, the 6th-century Welsh saint, wasn’t “made” a saint through the Roman Catholic canonization process. In the olden times, Welsh/Celtic Christian holy figures were usually recognized by local church tradition, reputation for holiness, and their role as founders/abbots/bishops, rather than by a formal Vatican procedure. In the case of Deiniol, he founded the monastery/church at Bangor around 525, so that over time, he was venerated as Saint Deiniol.
Ikatlo, what to see there?
Architecturally, it’s a mix of Norman/Romanesque and Gothic. It does feel medieval… and grandly so.
Inside, you’d see a layered medieval–Victorian Gothic interior, apparent in the stone arches, choir stalls, stained glass, and so on.
Those stained glasses, let’s emphasize, are from the 19th- and early-20th-century, including works by Clayton & Bell, James Powell & Sons, Burlison & Grylls, and Mayer & Co.
Should you seek this one out? Deserving ba na sadyain? Kung nasa area ka na, keri. Welcoming naman ang church.
Otherwise… rampa elsewhere na, as I do sa patuloy na LGBTQIA+ wandering…
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