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Trapped by a flash flood in Mindoro

I urge you to help re-equip Mindoro’s Tamaraw rangers with GPS units, spotting scopes, binoculars, laptops and field uniforms by contacting the Tamaraw Conservation Programme at +63977 809 1498.

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By Gregg Yan

We were trapped.

A sudden downpour engorged Occidental Mindoro’s mountain rivers an hour ago. The small stream we forded three days ago was now a raging torrent of churning, life-taking brown water.

Fording was suicide. The only crossing was through a bamboo ‘monkey bridge’ made of two slippery poles – a rotting base pole and a flimsy handrail. Which of course, was broken. Like in the movies.

Beside me sat an old Taw’buid woman, shivering and sheltered by a flimsy banana leaf. As an anthropologist, I knew that a Siganon or lowlander like me cannot touch a female Taw’buid tribeswoman even for warmth. I gave her an umbrella and dropped my pack.

When the going gets tough, the tough get going.

Ploughing forward to repair the bridge, I tied myself to a branch with thick vines – a trick I learned from jungle survival school. White-knuckling the broken bamboo rail, I took a step. Another. Knew I should’ve dieted more. Suddenly I felt the rotting bamboo pole give way. Craaaaack!  

THE WILD, WILD MOUNTAINS OF MINDORO

The Iglit-Baco Natural Park in Mindoro spans 75,445 hectares and is dominated by Mt. Baco (2488m) and Mt. Iglit (2364m). Eight major river systems wend through its grassy peaks. When I first visited at the height of the monsoon season of 2012, we crossed a total of 42 rivers and streams. My ankles were leech magnets.

The park is famed for hosting the best-protected population of Tamaraw (Bubalus mindorensis), Earth’s most endangered buffalo species. Droves of mountain climbers and birdwatchers visit – intent on seeing flying jewels like the Mindoro Hornbill (Penelopides mindorensis) and Mindoro Bleeding Heart (Gallicolumba platenae).

The park is also home to the reclusive Taw’buid, largest of the eight tribes collectively called Mangyan – the others being the Alangan, Bangon, Buhid, Hanunuo, Iraya, Ratagnon and Tadyawan. Last time I visited was when the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), Tamaraw Conservation Programme (TCP) and National Geographic gave the tribe a shipment of solar lamps. The Taw’buid holds a special place in my heart.

This year I was invited by the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) to join the second Bio-Camp, an annual move to enhance public support for Tamaraw conservation. UNDP’s Biodiversity Finance Initiative (BIOFIN) works to mobilize resources to finance nature and sustainable development, deliver more efficient outcomes, improve spending efficiency and choose current investments which can save money in the future. BIOFIN helps close the funding gap to implement critically-important biodiversity conservation projects.

Led by TCP Coordinator June Pineda, participants Bibiana Aguha, Jes Aznar, Mitch De Juan, Kim Lim, Nella Lomotan, Bernard Magcarang, Gab Mejia, Maricor Montalbo, Celine Murillo, Angie Ogena, Kamille Rosales, Mitch Tuyan, Derald Umali and Gab Visenio all summited Mt. Magawang, saw Tamaraw in the wild and had lively discussions on how best to help rangers – the real heroes of the Iglit-Baco Natural Park.

RANGERS ON PATROL

“If the rangers disappear, the Tamaraw disappear. The Taw’buid believe that if the Tamaraw disappears, their people will too. We can thus say our Tamaraw Rangers are key to sustaining the natural habitat of the Tamaraw within the Iglit-Baco Natural Park,” says TCP Coordinator June Pineda.

We were accompanied by three kinds of rangers: Park rangers safeguard the park against poachers, tamaraw rangers lead expeditions and protect Tamaraw wherever they may be, while wardens are rangers-in-training.

“Tamaraw patrols are sent out once or twice weekly and last about three days each,” explains TCP Field Operations Officer Ed Bata. “Last August we found a Tamaraw skull and the lower left jawbone of a Philippine Deer – probably shot for meat by hunters. Poachers come at night, flashlights rigged under the barrels of illegally-acquired long-arms like M14s.”

As I found in Borneo for another wildlife adventure years back, many wild animals stop and stare at bright lights at night, their eyes glowing a freaky red.

“Our equipment is old. Our last computer broke down recently. Though we badly need new gear, our rangers will keep going,” promises Pineda. “It is from them that I draw strength.”

JUNGLE ENGINEERS

Back at the river I hop back before the bamboo pole completely collapses. I gaze at the shivering Taw’buid woman on the riverbank and curse myself for not being able to do more for her. Eventually the rain eases up, the river becomes calmer – and help arrives.

The first of our team’s Taw’buid and Buhid porters arrive to assess the situation. Rapidly they string more vines around the battered bridge while a lithe scout crosses with a fisho, a long Taw’buid blade – emerging minutes later with two fresh bamboo poles. As we sweat, grunt and try to avoid falling in the river, the bridge takes form.

BIOFIN’s Kamille Rosales hands the Taw’buid woman a dry shirt, warming her. After a half-hour, the bridge is up and the column trudges once more for civilization.

As we crossed that rickety bridge, I realized how the brave, resourceful rangers of TCP and the Iglit-Baco Natural Park surmounted these obstacles all the time – fording swollen rivers, patrolling against heavily-armed poachers, dismantling dangerous spring-loaded spike traps set illegally within the park’s core zone. Building bridges and keeping a lifeline to the lowlands open has kept the park and its endangered animals alive and thriving. This year, the park’s Tamaraw numbers swelled to 523, the highest recorded since conservation efforts began.

“We rangers have dodged bullets and charging Tamaraw. Once I slid down a mountain for we were patrolling without lights,” remembers Ranger Team Leader Ronnie Estrella. “We even chased off a dozen poachers with kwitis or fireworks because we had no guns! This has become much more than a job for us. This is where many of us have devoted our lives.”

Making do with equipment which have seen better days, the plucky rangers are every bit as tough as the Tamaraw they protect.

I urge you to help re-equip Mindoro’s Tamaraw rangers with GPS units, spotting scopes, binoculars, laptops and field uniforms by contacting the Tamaraw Conservation Programme at +63977 809 1498. As I found while repairing that rickety bridge, help goes a long way.

Believing that everyone's perspective is important, Zest Magazine has opted to provide an avenue for these perspectives to be known. care to hear the publication's contributing writers; or better yet, do some contributing yourself by contacting info@zestmag.com.

Destinations

Coffee-craving with rice meals on the side at Foam Coffee

The search for a good cup of coffee is what led us to Foam Coffee, which – it must be pointed out – is more of a resto than a café.

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Baguio City has always been a must-visit place for foodies, thanks to the many culinary offerings from the Cordillera region (think pinikpikan, etag and binaod, among others). But – whether you agree with us or not, particularly since you may know some venues we don’t – one of the biggest challenges we encountered was looking for good kape.

The search for a good cup of coffee is what led us to Foam Coffee, which – it must be pointed out – is more of a resto than a café.

So, how was our visit to Foam Coffee?

@outragemag Looking for #kape in #FoamCoffee in #Baguio, only to end up eating not-cheap #ricemeals ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Una, this is easy to locate, as it’s right across the city hall of Baguio.

Ikalawa, the place itself is sterile-looking. Yep, maaliwalas siya (it’s airy), newly-furnished, is clean, and so on. But when we were there, it also felt quite impersonal, and didn’t feel like a community café or something.

Ikatlo, this is a self-service and CLAYGO (clean as you go) venue. Meaning, you won’t really engage with the staff as they’re there just to take and then give you your order, and then clean up after you if you failed to follow the CLAYGO policy. This adds to the making of this place as impersonal.

And ika-apat, how were the offerings?

So… the original intent was to grab coffee since this was repeatedly highly ranked by reviewers. Alas, the ₱120 Americano was, to start, not even that warm anymore when served. And taste-wise, it was almost like it was watered down.

The rice meals that we ended up also trying were actually not bad. The ₱230 Orange Chicken (orange-glazed chicken with rice) tasted… orangey, sweetish and yet citrusy. The ₱270 Bulgogi Tapa (thinly sliced Korean beef that’s marinated in sweet and salty soy in garlic butter, with rice and eggs), meanwhile, was sweet and savory. The rice in both dishes was good, too; flavorful so that even sans the toppings, already a meal.

For us, if there’s one issue with the rice meals, it’s the size of the servings. Particularly the ulam (viand). You will not get a lot. Which, for us, makes this place a somewhat pricey silog-like venue.

Foam Coffee has a market – e.g. check those who study while there. This is understandable even with the place’s limits. But we’re off elsewhere… perhaps in search of good coffee, as businesses should have if they use the word in their business name.

So off we go in search of more lafangan venues…

Foam Coffee is located at Upper G/F Travelite Hotel, Shuntug St., Baguio City. For more information, contact 0977 602 3750.

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Destinations

Faith, fanaticism, and everything in between in Manaoag

The Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Manaoag, also known as the Manaoag Church, is quite popular, attracting over 5.73 million visitors in 2024 alone. We #LGBT checked while in search of faith…

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The Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Manaoag, also known as the Manaoag Church, is quite popular, attracting over 5.73 million visitors in 2024 alone. But this should not be surprising since this Roman Catholic church in Pangasinan isn’t just a religious site, but is also valuable culturally and artistically.

Here are some observations from us.

@outragemag #LGBT and looking for #faith in #manaoagchurch in #Pangasinan ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Una, placed under the jurisdiction of the Archdiocese of Lingayen-Dagupan, this place is historical. The original shrine was founded in 1600, with construction of the church started in 1882 and completed around 1911-12.

Ikalawa, there are must-check architectural features – e.g. the central retablo, completed by the Tampinco Atelier of Manila incorporates Baroque columns from the 18th-century altar.

Ikatlo, the late Pope Francis raised the shrine to the status of a Minor Basilica in 2014. This means that it has a special bond with the Pope.

Ika-apat, it is home to the statue of Our Lady of Manaoag, a 17th-century ivory and silver image of the Virgin Mary with the child Jesus. This was brought to the Philippines from Spain via the Manila galleon trade from Acapulco, Mexico by one Padre Juan de San Jacinto.

Miracles attributed to Our Lady of Manaoag are numerous – e.g. the church being saved from the Japanese attacks during World War III, rain during droughts, and so on. Some of these miracles are depicted in murals in the church.

And ika-lima, there are manifestations of the merging of pre-Christian with Roman Catholic beliefs. Outside the church, for instance, there are vendors selling the Sto. Niño with that big phallus, lucky charms along with those anting-anting, and gayuma sold in brown bottles.

No matter the appeal, this isn’t for everyone. For instance, the commercialization of faith is quite blatant (such as the selling of those merch), and it could be a real turn-off. Also, security can be O.A. tight – e.g. there may be times when this could feel unwelcoming, such as when the security guy approached us to enumerate what’s allowed or not allowed inside the establishment. Jesus himself, I’d say, could be questioned in churches like this because of how he looked and how he acted.

But if in the area, you may want to drop by. Particularly since the locality does not have much to offer touristy-wise anyway. Your search for faith can be your key to discovering this historical, artistic and… yeah, religious gem.

The Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Manaoag is located on M. H. del Pilar Street, Manaoag, 2430 Pangasinan.

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Destinations

In an airy Baguio café via Rebel Bakehouse

When you check lists of places for foodies, many of the same venues are mentioned… and one of those is Rebel Bakehouse. We checked if it’s worth a try.

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Baguio City has become a must-visit location for those looking for good – or at least well-promoted – restaurants. But we noted that when you check lists of places for foodies, many of the same venues are mentioned… and one of those is Rebel Bakehouse.

We checked the branch right beside the Baguio Cathedral of Our Lady of Atonement, and… how was it for us?

@outragemag #LGBT checking #RebelBakehouse in #Baguio to ascertain if it's a good alternative to #starbucks, #CBTL ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Una, the place is tricky to find… at least for non-churchgoers. We actually thought it’s in some street parallel to the church; instead, it’s actually right inside the church’s compound.

Ikalawa, if there’s a word to describe the venue, it’s maaliwalas (airy). The venue is divided into spots – e.g. there’s the upper floor, the inside, and the seats outside. Since Baguio City can still get cool, or even cold, open-air din siya, though this also means that flies from outside can (and do) enter the premises.

Ikatlo, the workers are chill. If asked, they can elaborate on what’s being offered; otherwise, if you don’t engage with them, they’re typical café staff… there but not there.

Ika-apat, how was the food? TBH, since we just came from a heavy meal, we just tried some of their breads and drinks.

  1. The Classic Pain Au Chocolat (₱150) and the Cinnamon Bun (₱180) looked pretty, easily reminding me, personally, of breads in some bakery in Paris. But… taste-wise, they’re not remarkable. We’d go as far as saying that they both tasted the same… just like croissant. The dark chocolate inside the former was, at least, good; but the cinnamon was not even apparent in the latter.
  2. The kape (₱110), served black, was so-so. I – sadly – really can’t even remember drinking it.

We’re not sure the way to beat Starbucks or Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf is to mimic them. Which is how being in Rebel Bakehouse felt like; as if we were in one of the international coffee chains’ branches in Tagaytay. This isn’t to say this is bad… even considering our misgivings with the breads and kape. After all, this is still an okay, and local, option.

Perhaps if we visit again, if at all, we’d try their meals na. But until then, join us as we look for more lafangan venues…

Rebel Bakehouse is located right beside the Baguio Cathedral of Our Lady of Atonement, at CH6X+WM4, Upper Bonifacio St., Baguio City.

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