Destinations
El Nido, Palawan: Postcard Perfect
The appeal of the province of Palawan may be mainly its being a largely untouched place. But as M.D. dela Cruz Tan discovers, there’s more to this place than meets the eye.
The first time Australian D.J.M. Winters stepped on the shores of Miniloc Island, in El Nido, north of Palawan, to visit the country’s “Last Environmental Frontier,” as well as “check out what business ventures may be there,” he noted that “it was like stepping on a photograph come to life,” he says. “Everything seemed too good to be true. Palawan is almost surreal for its beauty.”
Winters’ amazement is understandable, what with Palawan long considered a land of clichés, at least as far as the image of a stereotypical tropical paradise is concerned. Sandy white beaches stretching for miles, incessantly kissed by the crystal clear waters that mirror the blue sky, or reflect rolling clouds as they pass, seemingly lovingly blown by the whistling wind, just as they make the tall palm trees by the beaches bend, dancing to a tune only they can hear – all of them are in Palawan. And so much more, actually.
“It most certainly is full of surprises,” Winters says.
RICH HISTORY
Not largely known is the province’s rich history, best exemplified by the antiquities that abound there. Underwater or on the ground, however, Palawan has something to offer everyone.
Named after the nests of swiftlets (the main ingredient in the world-famous Nido Soup), El Nido (Spanish for the nest) is a 50,000 hectare-town of 18 barangays populated by some 27,000 people “very overprotective about their settlement,” notes Winters. “Rightly so, though, what with the place’s ecological treasures – all deserving of superlatives, but all fragile, and seemingly always in threat.”
Among Winters’ “favorite occurrences that are bound to be reminisced time and again” include kayaking from island to island, “my concentration broken only by the flapping wings of sea hawks, sighting unseen preys as they circle limestone cliffs formed millions of years ago;” bird watching, especially since El Nido’s forests are home to over 100 species of birds, many of them endemic to Palawan; stargazing, “realizing how small we are in the scheme of things;” island hopping to “see that here, seeing beauty never stops;” and simply admiring nature, such as “observing the peculiar looking pitcher plants that, to better their chances of survival, evolved to hang ever so low, almost touching the waters as they dangle from the rocky cliffs, waiting for whatever it is that will get trapped in their cavernous carafes to sustain them,” Winters says. “Nature 101.”
Amazement is, indeed, everywhere in Palawan.
In Miniloc Island, right off the pier is a rich marine world teeming with life, so that those snorkeling are literally inundated by swimming groupers, fusiliers, parrot fish, and other fish species that are normally only seen in, say, Animal Planet. In Lagen Island, mangrove tours, especially before at the break of dawn, right before the sun starts bathing with golden color everything under it, wild birds, many of them migratory, fly from their nests, their graceful motions mirrored by the waters under them.
In Matinloc Island, there’s the not-so-secret Secret Beach, worth visiting for a “glimpse of the sense of total seclusion,” Winters says, even if it is only accessible by snorkeling through a small crack in the limestone walls that envelope it.
And then there are the Big and Small Lagoons, both welcome retreats, with their pristine waters seemingly contradicting the roughness of their source, the “unruly sea” right outside their confines. There, it’s a different world altogether, filled with rock formations that resemble elephant tusks, a praying Virgin Mary, the caped crusader Batman hiding behind some rocks, phallic idols – “whatever,” Winters says. “It’s more like a cloud, actually, wherein you see them as what you want them to be. Like a fantasy, you can tailor-fit it to suit what you want. El Nido’s cliffs are like that, too. A hark back to the times when nature was magical.”
LAND OF BOUNTY
No wonder, thus, that “I’m looking at staying here for good,” Winters says with a laugh. The same appeal has actually already made ”regular inhabitants out of many who visited Palawan,” says Mickey Castaño of Belcas Realty Corp., which “recognizes the place’s great potential.”
Enterprise Magazine earlier reported (Paradise Found, March 2006) that there are opportunities to buy beachfront properties, or even entire islands, in the various towns of Palawan – and all at very affordable prices. In El Nido, for example, lots sell for about P1,500 per square meter, while small islands can be bought for as low as P200 to P300 per square meter. Adds the online publication Offshore and Real Estate Quarterly (escapeartist.com), beachfront properties with a frontage of approximately 300 feet (90 meters), and a total area of under two hectares cost less than P175 per square foot – roughly equal to 20 US cents, or less than $2.25 per square meter.
“This makes it an ideal time to invest,” says Castaño, who stressed that there is, however, “an urgency in investing since local officials (recognize) that in order to preserve Palawan’s beauty, over-development should be avoided, (and so) only a limited number of developments are allowed.”
Again in El Nido, only 32 resort developments are allowed, “making it good for those who invest in the place, what with less competition, but, more importantly, preserving the place’s appeal, which is its largely untouched beauty,” Castaño says.
On the bangka (dinghy) that carried him from Miniloc Island to the pier right by the local airport, where some brightly-clad locals were singing farewell songs in the local Cuyunin language, Winters was already “in a nostalgic mood,” he says. “You just want the experience to last.”
As if catching himself from turning mawkish, he laughs. Palawan, Winters says with a hearty laugh, is cliché personified. “It’s almost poetic, I tell you. And even that (claim) is admittedly cliché, too. Just as I tell you you’ll keep coming back here once you’ve already been here.”
*First published in Outrage Magazine in January 2009; reprinted with permission.
Destinations
Coffee-craving with rice meals on the side at Foam Coffee
The search for a good cup of coffee is what led us to Foam Coffee, which – it must be pointed out – is more of a resto than a café.
Baguio City has always been a must-visit place for foodies, thanks to the many culinary offerings from the Cordillera region (think pinikpikan, etag and binaod, among others). But – whether you agree with us or not, particularly since you may know some venues we don’t – one of the biggest challenges we encountered was looking for good kape.
The search for a good cup of coffee is what led us to Foam Coffee, which – it must be pointed out – is more of a resto than a café.
So, how was our visit to Foam Coffee?
@outragemag Looking for #kape in #FoamCoffee in #Baguio, only to end up eating not-cheap #ricemeals ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine
Una, this is easy to locate, as it’s right across the city hall of Baguio.
Ikalawa, the place itself is sterile-looking. Yep, maaliwalas siya (it’s airy), newly-furnished, is clean, and so on. But when we were there, it also felt quite impersonal, and didn’t feel like a community café or something.
Ikatlo, this is a self-service and CLAYGO (clean as you go) venue. Meaning, you won’t really engage with the staff as they’re there just to take and then give you your order, and then clean up after you if you failed to follow the CLAYGO policy. This adds to the making of this place as impersonal.
And ika-apat, how were the offerings?
So… the original intent was to grab coffee since this was repeatedly highly ranked by reviewers. Alas, the ₱120 Americano was, to start, not even that warm anymore when served. And taste-wise, it was almost like it was watered down.
The rice meals that we ended up also trying were actually not bad. The ₱230 Orange Chicken (orange-glazed chicken with rice) tasted… orangey, sweetish and yet citrusy. The ₱270 Bulgogi Tapa (thinly sliced Korean beef that’s marinated in sweet and salty soy in garlic butter, with rice and eggs), meanwhile, was sweet and savory. The rice in both dishes was good, too; flavorful so that even sans the toppings, already a meal.
For us, if there’s one issue with the rice meals, it’s the size of the servings. Particularly the ulam (viand). You will not get a lot. Which, for us, makes this place a somewhat pricey silog-like venue.
Foam Coffee has a market – e.g. check those who study while there. This is understandable even with the place’s limits. But we’re off elsewhere… perhaps in search of good coffee, as businesses should have if they use the word in their business name.
So off we go in search of more lafangan venues…
Foam Coffee is located at Upper G/F Travelite Hotel, Shuntug St., Baguio City. For more information, contact 0977 602 3750.
Destinations
Faith, fanaticism, and everything in between in Manaoag
The Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Manaoag, also known as the Manaoag Church, is quite popular, attracting over 5.73 million visitors in 2024 alone. We #LGBT checked while in search of faith…
The Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Manaoag, also known as the Manaoag Church, is quite popular, attracting over 5.73 million visitors in 2024 alone. But this should not be surprising since this Roman Catholic church in Pangasinan isn’t just a religious site, but is also valuable culturally and artistically.
Here are some observations from us.
@outragemag #LGBT and looking for #faith in #manaoagchurch in #Pangasinan ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine
Una, placed under the jurisdiction of the Archdiocese of Lingayen-Dagupan, this place is historical. The original shrine was founded in 1600, with construction of the church started in 1882 and completed around 1911-12.
Ikalawa, there are must-check architectural features – e.g. the central retablo, completed by the Tampinco Atelier of Manila incorporates Baroque columns from the 18th-century altar.
Ikatlo, the late Pope Francis raised the shrine to the status of a Minor Basilica in 2014. This means that it has a special bond with the Pope.
Ika-apat, it is home to the statue of Our Lady of Manaoag, a 17th-century ivory and silver image of the Virgin Mary with the child Jesus. This was brought to the Philippines from Spain via the Manila galleon trade from Acapulco, Mexico by one Padre Juan de San Jacinto.
Miracles attributed to Our Lady of Manaoag are numerous – e.g. the church being saved from the Japanese attacks during World War III, rain during droughts, and so on. Some of these miracles are depicted in murals in the church.
And ika-lima, there are manifestations of the merging of pre-Christian with Roman Catholic beliefs. Outside the church, for instance, there are vendors selling the Sto. Niño with that big phallus, lucky charms along with those anting-anting, and gayuma sold in brown bottles.
No matter the appeal, this isn’t for everyone. For instance, the commercialization of faith is quite blatant (such as the selling of those merch), and it could be a real turn-off. Also, security can be O.A. tight – e.g. there may be times when this could feel unwelcoming, such as when the security guy approached us to enumerate what’s allowed or not allowed inside the establishment. Jesus himself, I’d say, could be questioned in churches like this because of how he looked and how he acted.
But if in the area, you may want to drop by. Particularly since the locality does not have much to offer touristy-wise anyway. Your search for faith can be your key to discovering this historical, artistic and… yeah, religious gem.
The Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Manaoag is located on M. H. del Pilar Street, Manaoag, 2430 Pangasinan.
Destinations
In an airy Baguio café via Rebel Bakehouse
When you check lists of places for foodies, many of the same venues are mentioned… and one of those is Rebel Bakehouse. We checked if it’s worth a try.
Baguio City has become a must-visit location for those looking for good – or at least well-promoted – restaurants. But we noted that when you check lists of places for foodies, many of the same venues are mentioned… and one of those is Rebel Bakehouse.
We checked the branch right beside the Baguio Cathedral of Our Lady of Atonement, and… how was it for us?
@outragemag #LGBT checking #RebelBakehouse in #Baguio to ascertain if it's a good alternative to #starbucks, #CBTL ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine
Una, the place is tricky to find… at least for non-churchgoers. We actually thought it’s in some street parallel to the church; instead, it’s actually right inside the church’s compound.
Ikalawa, if there’s a word to describe the venue, it’s maaliwalas (airy). The venue is divided into spots – e.g. there’s the upper floor, the inside, and the seats outside. Since Baguio City can still get cool, or even cold, open-air din siya, though this also means that flies from outside can (and do) enter the premises.
Ikatlo, the workers are chill. If asked, they can elaborate on what’s being offered; otherwise, if you don’t engage with them, they’re typical café staff… there but not there.
Ika-apat, how was the food? TBH, since we just came from a heavy meal, we just tried some of their breads and drinks.
- The Classic Pain Au Chocolat (₱150) and the Cinnamon Bun (₱180) looked pretty, easily reminding me, personally, of breads in some bakery in Paris. But… taste-wise, they’re not remarkable. We’d go as far as saying that they both tasted the same… just like croissant. The dark chocolate inside the former was, at least, good; but the cinnamon was not even apparent in the latter.
- The kape (₱110), served black, was so-so. I – sadly – really can’t even remember drinking it.
We’re not sure the way to beat Starbucks or Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf is to mimic them. Which is how being in Rebel Bakehouse felt like; as if we were in one of the international coffee chains’ branches in Tagaytay. This isn’t to say this is bad… even considering our misgivings with the breads and kape. After all, this is still an okay, and local, option.
Perhaps if we visit again, if at all, we’d try their meals na. But until then, join us as we look for more lafangan venues…
Rebel Bakehouse is located right beside the Baguio Cathedral of Our Lady of Atonement, at CH6X+WM4, Upper Bonifacio St., Baguio City.
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