Recognized in 2023 as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, Iloilo City has a lot of must-check culinary offerings… though among the regularly mentioned are batchoy (yep, we’ve had that, too, via Netong’s) and pancit molo. The search for the latter led us to Camiña Balay nga Bato in Iloilo, which – while offering what we were looking for – is actually more than just a resto, but a historical gem that just happens to also offer culinary gems.

So, how was the visit to Camiña Balay nga Bato in Iloilo for us?

@outragemag Mixing history with #tsokolatedebatirol and #pancitmolo dring this #LGBT trip to #Iloilo ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Una, the place is quite far from the city, huh! It is accessible naman, since jeepneys travel to the area, and – for those with budget – Grab can take you there, too. But that we had a hard time getting a taxi to return downtown should tell you how far this place is.

Ikalawa, the actual place is historical. Designed by the first parish priest of Molo, Anselmo Avanceña, the house was built in 1865 for Don Fernando Avanceña and his wife Eulalia Abaja. Declared in 2015 as an Important Cultural Property by the National Museum of the Philippines, it is now a museum with a resto.

Ikatlo, the house can be toured for a fee.

For ₱150, you will be mandated to watch a video telling you of the history of the place, before being allowed to check the house itself. This tour will end in the resto, where you will be served with tsokolate de batirol and a bowl of ugoy-ugoy (a kind of layered biscuit topped with sugar). This is unli, so you can drink as much as you want.

For ₱220, you can add pancit molo to the food to be served to you.

Ika-apat, kumusta ang food?

Prepared while we watched, the tsokolate de batirol was richly thick, though it was also milky and somewhat sweetish. Hindi nakakasawa.

The biscuits were good, ideal accompaniment to the tsokolate de batirol. They were crisp and yet, while disintegrating, weren’t powdery.

The pancit molo was 50-50 for us. On one hand, the dumplings were prepared well naman, with enough meat wrapped in not-easily-disintegrating wrappers. But on the other hand, the soup was quite salty; and that’s coming from us who are okay with salty food.

If there’s a must-try in this place, it’s their papaya slices and juice. Supposedly grown in a farm in nearby Guimaras, they are so sweet you’d think they were sugared.

Is Camiña Balay nga Bato in Iloilo worth visiting? Yep… for the history, some of the food, and so on. Though if we’re talking pancit molo, baka sa iba na lang.

And so, while thankful to Camiña Balay nga Bato in Iloilo for the history and culinary lessons, off we go in search of more lafangan venues…

Camiña Balay nga Bato in Iloilo is located at 20 Osmeña Street, Brgy. Sta. Felomina Arevalo, Iloilo City For more information, contact 0947 891 1467, or email lolarufina1865@gmail.com.

The Grab driver told us that the “downtown” area of Iloilo City has moved, from the older city center not too far from the city hall and provincial capitol, to the commercial area of Mandurriao. This shift means many of the older attractions are ignored, if not forgotten. And among these is Roberto’s, popular for selling siopao (hot buns) since 1978.

@outragemag Have you tried the supposedly best #siopao in #Iloilo? We #LGBT ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

With good word of mouth (and not just from the Grab driver, but also from the hotel’s staff, bank security guard, and so on), we checked the maker of, supposedly, the city’s “largest best-tasting siopao”. And kumusta ang experience namin?

Una, the place is easy to find. Locals know about this place, so – if you ask – you will be guided accordingly. Not that this is needed, actually, since the place is located in the historic street of Calle Real, a.k.a. J.M. Basa Street, which tourists tend to pass through if checking the older parts of Iloilo.

Ikalawa, the resto is old, complete with old furniture, those old mirrors, old photos and tarpaulins pasted on various parts of the resto, and so on. I doubt people visit for the glam, however.

Ikatlo, they have a karinderya system. Here, you are supposed to queue to order, and then find your own table/seat. The place can get full, so that take-out orders are common.

Ika-apat, the workers are… impersonal. No engagement of customers happens here; just order and pay.

Ikalima, kumusta ang offerings?

1. There are four types of siopao: the ₱180 Queen, ₱150 King, ₱100 Jumbo and ₱60 Regular. Aside from the size (e.g. the Queen is the biggest, at least they’re not patriarchal), the fillings also vary. The Queen, for instance, has bacon, Chinese sausage, chicken-pork adobo, and egg; while, for the King, remove the bacon). Yes, the siopaos we got were bigger-than-usual. And the dough used was soft. But, taste-wise, they were… not exactly memorable. Malaki and malaman but unremarkable.
2. The ₱115 bihon was served in a plastic bag; you, yourself, had to transfer it to the Styrofoam provided. This one didn’t have a lot of sahog except for those pesky chicken bones. And, sadly, it was quite tasteless.
3. The ₱45 meatballs were surprising, tasting like skinless lumpiang Shanghai.

Long queues form in front of Roberto’s almost every day, with many just ordering the Queen siopao. We’re on the fence here, on whether this is deserved. Because we know Iloilo has other offerings that deserve just-as-much if not even more attention.

And so off we go in search of more lafangan venues…

Roberto’s is located at 61 J.M. Basa Street, Iloilo City.

May select food sa Philippines that made such big impressions so that they’re now being mimicked in various forms. Iloilo’s batchoy, halimbawa – like Batangas lomi and Bacolod inasal – was already appropriated by makers of instant noodles.

@outragemag #LGBT tasting original #batchoy in #Iloilo via the grimy #netongslapazbatchoy ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

And so while in Iloilo City, we headed to one of the original makers of batchoy, Netong’s Original Special La Paz Batchoy, established in 1948 by Teodorico “Netong” Guillergan Sr., and try one of the country’s most distinct noodle soups.

Una, this place is easy to find. Located inside the Lapaz Public Market, surrounded by other batchoy venues, locals actually also know of this place, so you can be guided accordingly.

Ikalawa, the actual resto is… nothing special. Looking like a small karinderya, this not-classy place isn’t the cleanest-looking, with the varnish or paint of the wooden tables already peeling, the flooring already seeing better days, and so on. But you do get proper seating in a masikip venue that’s better suited for smaller groups.

Ikatlo, the workers are… perfunctory. They know what they’re selling, yes, but this isn’t a fine dining venue, so don’t expect to be pampered.

Ika-apat, now… kumusta ang food?

1. The place only really sells batchoy, and there are three variants: the ₱100 Super, ₱120 Extra, and ₱140 Mega. The differences are the sahog. We wanted to order the Mega, but ubos na. So we got the Extra, which had pork, beef, liver, entrails, crunchy garlic, chicharon, and so on. For ₱20, we also added eggs (raw, added into the broth). And yep… this one’s good, with the flavors mixing properly. Matamis na garlicky na salty, just as batchoy should taste.
2. The ₱100 dinuguan (pork blood stew) was actually good, not malansa (fishy or off-putting) since it’s properly cooked and flavored. Maasim-asim due to the vinegar used, though not overpowering, so that it could also be okay as ulam (viand).
3. The ₱30 puto that come in threes are actually hefty. This isn’t dry, nor too airy, so it’s actually quite filling.

Fact: Iloilo City was recognized in 2023 as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, stressing how some of its culinary offerings are really must-check. And yes, include batchoy among those that should be tried.

But off we go in search for more lafangan venues…

Netong’s Original Special La Paz Batchoy is located at Lapaz Public Market, along Rizal Street in La Paz, Iloilo City. Contact (033) 396 2189, or head to their (not very active) Facebook page for more info.