Destinations
Celebrate Dia de Los Muertos in Mexico City and San Miguel de Allende
The festivities take place each year at the end of October to the beginning of November. From quiet candlelit cemeteries to experience the ancestral tradition to big parades and concerts, there are many intriguing things to do for Day of the Dead.
In 2008, UNESCO recognized the importance of Día de Los Muertos (Day of the Dead) by adding the holiday to its list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. As practiced by the indigenous communities of Mexico, el Día de los Muertos commemorates the transitory return to Earth of deceased relatives and loved ones.
The festivities take place each year at the end of October to the beginning of November. From quiet candlelit cemeteries to experience the ancestral tradition to big parades and concerts, there are many intriguing things to do for Day of the Dead.
Here are some ways to celebrate this festive holiday throughout Mexico including a Dia de Los Muertos women-only group trip in Mexico City to a special Dia de Los Muertos tarot card reading dinner in San Miguel de Allende and more. And if you can’t make the festivities this year, it’s never too early to plan ahead for 2020!
Mexico City
The Day of the Dead festivities begin in Mexico City on the Saturday before Dia de Los Muertos as the parade rolls through the capital. The night of October 31st kicks off a 3-day string of Day of the Dead activities in Mexico City.
Though you can catch the party in Zocalo, you’ll find a far more authentic celebration southeast of the city center, in San Andrew Mixquic. The ex-convent and church bedecks its main cemetery with thousands of candles and marigolds, and midnight processions bring thousands of capitalinos to the altar-lined streets. The Day of the Dead parade on November 2nd in Mexico City is actually a relatively new tradition, as it began in 2016. The parade is said to have been inspired by the 2015 James Bond film, Spectre. In the movie, the opening scene shows Daniel Craig as James Bond at a Day of the Dead parade in Mexico City.
Where to Stay
Stay in the beloved Colonia Roma neighborhood at Ignacia Guest House, a trendy eco-friendly bed and breakfast. Featuring just five unique suites, the hotel’s namesake is Ignacia, the housekeeper who took care of this 1913 colonial mansion for more than 70 years. In celebration of Dia de Los Muertos, the chef will bake the traditional holiday bread for breakfast that week – Pan de Muertos or “bread of the dead”, a slightly sweet, brioche-like bread covered with orange blossom water and anise seeds. A beautiful marigold altar will be put up in honor of Ignacia.
A “calaverita” (skull shaped candy) will be waiting for guests in their suites who check-in on October 31s, November 1st and 2nd. Guests can enjoy calabaza en tacha, a typical Dia de los Muertos candied pumpkin. For the daily cocktail hour in the garden, the chef will create cocktails with the flavors of this festive holiday, including anise and pumpkin.
What to Eat
Foodies will love Eat Like a Local Mexico City’s special Dia de Los Muertos food tour where founder and sustainable tourism expert Rocio Vazquez Landeta shares her personal approach to the celebration. Start the day with coffee, sweet bread, and street tacos with a visit to the flower market to enjoy delicious food while shopping for candy skulls, flowers, candles, colorful papers, and more. Visit Rocio’s home, a late 1800 house in Roma Norte to celebrate with mezcal cocktails and snacks while setting up the altar on the rooftop. Sharing childhood memories and the meaning of each item at the altar, Rocio invites guests to join her celebration to honor the dead.
Eat Like a Local’s Immersive Day of the Dead Experience is offered from October 26th through November 1st, 2019. The five-hour tour starts at 10am daily and costs $150USD per person. For more information, visit www.eatlikealocal.com.mx or email info@eatlikealocal.com.mx.
What to Do
Join Wild Terrains Mexico City Experience and support female entrepreneurs and women-owned businesses in Mexico City. Wild Terrains curates women-only small group trips that meet, support and learn about the local female-owned businesses within a destination. Wild Terrains leads an awesome Dia de Los Muertos group trip and they’ve recently announced their 2020 Dia de Los Muertos trip set for October 28-November 1, 2020 and sign-ups are available now.
Focusing on vibrant and culturally rich destinations for the creative-minded, Wild Terrains is the only travel company leading women-only group trips that support female entrepreneurs in Mexico City and Portugal. All trip itineraries include accommodations at female-owned hotels, meals prepared by up-and-coming female chefs, and experiences that connect travelers with local women entrepreneurs, artists, and designers. Wild Terrains’ popular Mexico City itineraries features stays at the super chic Ignacia Guest House, a five-suite boutique hideaway in Colonia Roma, an insider tour of Mexico City’s sprawling street food scene with sustainable tourism expert Rocio Vazquez Landeta with Eat Like a Local and so much more.
San Miguel de Allende
While most towns have at least a few processions for Day of the Dead, San Miguel de Allende hosts the colorful 5-day La Calaca Festival. The main attraction is the annual Catrinas Parade which draws crowds from near and far.
The highlight of the parade is the towering Catrina and Catrine puppets. But it doesn’t stop there. Professional makeup artists are plentiful and can be hired beforehand to paint your face into a beautiful skull, and feel free to get decked out from head to toe as there will be a costume contest. La Calaca Festival is a participatory arts festival that brings together interactive arts installations, local businesses, individuals and arts organizations and visitors from Mexico and around the world come together to witness art and creativity inspired by Dia de Los Muertos in a town rich in culture, heritage and art.
Where to Stay
Opened in April 2019, Casa Delphine is one of San Miguel de Allende’s newest hotels – a thoughtfully curated five-suite boutique hotel set on a quiet cobblestone street just minutes from the main plaza in the heart of this charming town. Owned and beautifully designed by Los Angeles designer Amanda Keidan, the spacious suites feature cantera fireplaces, hand designed furniture from local artists, warm accents, eclectic textures and colors and balconies that overlook the private courtyard and more. With its great room, dining room, private courtyards and herb garden, Casa Delphine is the perfect setting for private dinners, mezcal and wine tastings, celebrations and guests can take over the entire hotel for bigger events.
For Dia de Los Muertos, Casa Delphine is hosting a special tarot card reading dinner themed “As You Were”. On October 29th at 7pm, come dressed as you were in a past life for a four-course dinner, delicious themed starter with cocktails and wine and mini-reading by tarot card historian Miguel Canseco.
An altar for deceased relatives of staff and guests will be displayed at the hotel and a make-up artist will offer Calaca make-up for guests on Saturday as part of the festivities.
Destinations
Checking the charm of Baguio City’s Café by the Ruins
Googling eating venues in Baguio City will give you a lot of must-check places. And among those that, consistently, enter lists of recommended restaurants is Café by the Ruins. We #LGBT checked to see why.
Here’s an interesting thing with Baguio City: the city approved the cutting of actual trees to allow the building of a car park (we remember, SM), but too many of its local restaurants now build forests within its venues. Oh My Gulay! comes to mind, though also Café by the Ruins, this famed restaurant that occupies the lot containing the ruins of the Garden Theater outdoor cinema that was built in 1912 by Hubert Phelps Whitmarsh.
We dropped by for a quick meal… and here are some observations from us.
@outragemag Why is #CafebytheRuins in #Baguio still popular (even if it can be pricey)? We #LGBT ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine
Una, this place is easy to find. Yeah, you can take a taxi and tell the driver the place’s name; everyone knows where it is, so your driver could not possibly get lost. But you can also just choose to walk there. It is not too far from Burnham Park, and right beside the city hall of Baguio.
Ikalawa, not much has changed design-wise for the restaurant; meaning, if you’ve been there before, it looks – basically – the same now. You enter a wooden gate, traverse those hanging plants, and then enter a largely wooden two-floor venue. Welcoming you would be the famed breadshop, and then there are tables and seats for those who’d want to dine.
Ikatlo, slight slow ang service. Though that may just be because this place is always busy. But at least our servers did know their products. And they’re honest, too (e.g. “The Thai Beef Salad you want can be offered without some of the key ingredients, so I won’t recommend it.”).
Ika-apat, how was their food?
- We wanted to “wash away” the taste of the steaks we had at Sizzling Plate, so we ordered the Filet Mignon (thick slice of beef tenderloin wrapped in bacon, and then served with salad and marble potatoes, ₱520). Properly cooked so it remained juicy, this one didn’t disappoint.
- The Creole Pasta (pasta with shrimp and mushroom cream sauce with paprika, ₱380) was okay naman, though they didn’t have chili flakes (only Tabasco sauce), thus limiting our desire to make this spicier. It was filling… even if the portion was on the smaller side.
This restaurant is one of those with too many items in the menu, so – yeah – you’re bound to find something you’d like. Note that some of the goods here are costly – e.g. Breads sell from ₱60-₱180, Banana Turon for ₱120, Suman at Tsokolate for ₱210, and Dinuguan with Puto for ₱240. But these are among those that helped make this restaurant known.
Googling eating venues in Baguio City will give you a lot of must-check places. And among those that, consistently, enter lists of recommended restaurants is Café by the Ruins. This is not surprising, really, because this place can be described as largely consistent. So, yeah, while the breads there remain too expensive, everything else is… generally… okay, considering they taste better-than-okay anyway.
Go check… or just join us, as we look for more lafangan venues…
Café by the Ruins is located at 25 Shuntug Rd., Baguio City. For more information, contact 0966 528 9072 or email cafebytheruins@gmail.com.
Destinations
Checking the artsy offerings of Baguio’s Tsokolateria Artisanal Café
Tsokolateria Artisanal Café is this artsy resto in Baguio City, offering artisanal offerings. We #LGBT checked to see if it’s worth visiting.
We were looking for breakfast in Baguio City, and, while Googling, among the most recommended was Tsokolateria Artisanal Café… which we decided to check since too many of the other options were still closed (some opened from 9.00AM onwards, which was entering brunch hours already).
Now… how was this place for us?
@outragemag #LGBT checking the artsy but pricey #artisanal food of #tsokolateriabaguio Tsokolateria Artisanal Café in #Baguio ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine
Una, the place isn’t hard to find naman. Coming from the marketplace in Baguio, you – basically – just walk along Session Road, lampas ng SM Baguio and The Baguio Cathedral of Our Lady of the Atonement. It could be tedious particularly for the non-fans of walking (reminds you of the hilly roads of San Francisco), but… you can just consider this as your exercise, too.
Ikalawa, the actual place is okay naman. The place, which combines two venues – Tsokolateria and Pamana – is non-airconditioned yet well-ventilated, with lots of seating available. There are elements that may not be to everyone’s liking – e.g. those scary statues in front of the restaurant (particularly the ones seating on the stairs, which could be mistaken for real people), as well as those cheap-looking plastic plants hanging on the ceiling of the venue.
Ikatlo, the workers were okay naman. They were able to explain what’s on the menus (and how Tsokolateria differed from Pamana), and they weren’t intrusive at all (they let you be, as needed).
Ika-apat, how was the food?
- The Adobo Overload (chicken adobo topped with roasted cacao garlic and crispy adobo flakes, ₱535) was not maalat/salty, and so okay. But – even with the add-on well-seasoned veggies as side dish, as well as the black rice – you really don’t get much. So you’re basically paying for a deconstructed version of adobosilog for over ₱500.
- The House Waffle, Bacon Belly Arugula & Eggs (₱485) was interesting – e.g. the waffles were fried (this one’s yummy); those cherry tomatoes were fresh (another plus); the eggs, although small, were well done; and that meat was… bagnet-like.
Don’t get us wrong: This place is not bad at all. But – considering its asking prices – it’s not great, either. This is an okay-to-consider venue if you’re willing to cough up more than you should, more than is deserved so you can try food repackaged to be artsy.
Try lang… or discover others… as we do as we search for more lafangan venues.
Tsokolateria Artisanal Café is located at Igorot Stairs, Upper Session Rd., Baguio City. For more information, contact 0927 323 6513 or email inquiry@happyconceptgroup.com.
Destinations
Revisiting Sizzling Plate along Session Road in Baguio City
We checked (for the second time) one of Baguio City’s popular steakhouses: Sizzling Plate.
Truth: The first time we visited Sizzling Plate along Session Road in Baguio City, we were surprised. For a not-classy (and some may even say shabby and karinderya-looking) steakhouse, what the place offered were actually better-than-okay food – e.g. the steaks were properly cooked, the fries crunchy, the soup not runny, and so on.
@outragemag Looking for cheap #steaks in #Baguio? We #LGBT ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine
Truth: Sometimes, for good memories to stay good, don’t revisit to recreate them… which we unfortunately did by revisiting Sizzling Plate during a recent Baguio City trip.
And, sadly, the second time was such a letdown we wondered why we even liked it when we visited it for the first time.
Harsh? Perhaps… but let us explain why…
Una, this place – which was established in 1978 by couple Mike and Edna Anton – is very easy to find, as it sits right in the middle of Session Road, which is in the very center of Baguio City’s commercial area.
Ikalawa, décor-wise, the place looks rustic… like a Filipinized version of some rancher’s diner filled with wooden chairs and wooden tables and so on. Let it be said, however, that this place could use an upgrade – e.g. it looks dated (the “before” if this is to be renovated by Chef Gordon Ramsay in Kitchen Nightmare), has dated stuff (like those flimsy cutlery), and so on.
Ikatlo, the workers are still nice. We remembered some of them from our past visit, and while they – understandably – couldn’t remember all their diners, they were still pleasant while serving (e.g. could explain what’s on the menu, delivered the correct orders, and so on).
Ika-apat, how was the food?
- Y’all get free mushroom soup… which is, basically, a watery concoction that tasted like it was made from powder mix. Particularly when Baguio City gets cold, this should suffice to warm you while waiting for your food.
- All steak meals came with fries (stuffed under the slab of meat, so that when they reached us, we just got burnt potato slices that were too soggy to be called fries); veggies (though we really just got a few Baguio beans); and Java rice.
- The Australian Porterhouse (₱460) was smaller albeit thicker. Meanwhile, the T-bone Steak (₱420) was bigger-looking and yet thinner. Always remember that with sizzling steaks, the meat gets overcooked – i.e. we ordered medium rare, but by the time we ate, the meats were already well done. Also, both steaks served to us tasted too margarine-y… and too chewy to be enjoyable at all.
In truth, Sizzling Plate continues to be really popular. Understandably so because of: 1. it is historic; 2. it’s location (right in the middle of Session Road in the middle of Baguio City); and 3. cheap goods. But – for us – Baguio City actually has more to offer that should be checked, including alternatives to this venue (e.g. the fillet mignon of Café by the Ruins is same-priced, but way, WAY better). So, puwede magtiis here, or go discover is the advice.
And so off we go as we search for more lafangan venues…
Sizzling Plate is located at 86 Session Rd., Baguio City.
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