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Waiting for tuna in Albay

Today, about 52% of the country’s fish exports come from tuna, which buoys the lives and livelihoods of millions of Filipinos. WWF’s Global Oceans Campaign, Sustain Our Seas, builds on decades of work to rekindle the health and productivity of the Earth’s oceans.

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By Gregg Yan

A little boy admires his family boat's sigil - a jumping Bankulis or Yellowfin Tuna. The boy's future might very well depend on whether these oceanic giants keep on jumping.  PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

A little boy admires his family boat’s sigil – a jumping Bankulis or Yellowfin Tuna. The boy’s future might very well depend on whether these oceanic giants keep on jumping.
PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

Late afternoon and we’re holed up in a hut along the coast of Tiwi in Albay, trading fish tales and waiting for fishermen to return. Sitting around us are their wives, mending nets and eyeing the swelling crowd of kids cajoling in the surf. It is June, the season for yellowfin tuna.

The first of the bancas arrive, unloading a decent haul of pundahan or skipjack – small, striped tuna which have proven surprisingly resilient to commercial fishing. Bancas two and three return empty-handed while a fourth disgorges a tub of galunggong or scad. Just one bankulis or yellowfin tuna has been landed, hours earlier. She tipped the scales at 39 kilograms, golden sickle-fins resplendent even in death. We wait until the sun dips into the sea, but no more tuna come.

“The Lagonoy Gulf is the Bicol region’s richest tuna site – but it is heavily overfished,” explains BFAR National Stock Assessment project head Virginia Olaño. “Two decades ago, fishers regularly caught large yellowfin. In 1998, a fisherman landed a 196 kilogram giant, long as a car and fat as a drum. Now yields are waning and yellowfin average just 18 to 35 kilograms – meaning juveniles have replaced adults.”

Though yellowfin tuna are highly-prized, they are far more than mere seafood. Top predators in the marine food chain, they maintain the balance between oceanic predators and prey. “Today the Lagonoy Gulf’s most common fish are anchovies,” warns Olaño. “There aren’t enough predators to eat them – because we’ve eaten most of their predators.”

To stop overfishing and help manage existing tuna stocks in Bicol, the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), Bureau of Fisheries and Aquatic Resources (BFAR), plus the Philippine Council for Agriculture and Fisheries (PCAF) convened the first meeting of the Gulf of Lagonoy Tuna Fishers Federation (GLTFF), comprised of the coastal municipalities ringing the Lagonoy Gulf – 3070-square kilometers of sea separating the Bicol mainland from the storm-swept island of Catanduanes. Over 500 people attended Bicol’s first large-scale gathering of fishers, held at the Lagman Auditorium of Bicol University’s Tabaco Campus.

“We’ve waited three years to formalize this federation, which covers 2000 tuna fishers in the Lagonoy Gulf,” says BFAR Assistant Regional Director Marjurie Grutas. “GLTFF aims to synergize fisheries management while optimizing cooperation, knowledge-sharing and enforcement. We aim to eliminate illegal fishing, minimize the capture of juvenile tuna and drive commercial fishers away from municipal waters – the three leading causes of overfishing.”

Since 2011, WWF has been working to enhance yellowfin tuna management practices for 5000 fishers in 112 tuna fishing villages around the Lagonoy Gulf and the coast of Occidental Mindoro.

WWF’s Public Private Partnership Programme Towards Sustainable Tuna (PPTST) has since organized tuna fishing associations in all 15 municipalities in the Lagonoy Gulf, plus six LGUs in the Mindoro Strait. It spearheaded the registration and licensing of tuna fishers, vessels and gear to minimize bycatch and illegal fishing, deployed 1000 plastic tuna tags to make the fishery traceable, and completed a series of training sessions on proper tuna handling to ensure that exported tuna continually meet international quality standards.

PPTST harnesses market power and consumer demand to promote sustainably-caught tuna and support low-impact fishing methods like artisanal fishing with hand-line reels – better alternatives to commercial tuna long-lines, which stretch up to 80 kilometers and are rigged with up to 3000 baited hooks.

Funded by Coop, Bell Seafood, Seafresh and the German Investment and Development Corporation, PPTST involves European seafood companies plus their local suppliers, BFAR, local government units in the Bicol Region and Mindoro, the WWF Coral Triangle Program, WWF-Germany plus WWF-Philippines.

Today, about 52% of the country’s fish exports come from tuna, which buoys the lives and livelihoods of millions of Filipinos. WWF’s Global Oceans Campaign, Sustain Our Seas, builds on decades of work to rekindle the health and productivity of the Earth’s oceans.

“Federations like GLTFF are the resource management systems of the future,” concludes WWF-Philippines president and CEO Joel Palma while sampling maguro sashimi (thinly-cut tuna slices) sourced from the sole 39 kilogram yellowfin landed in Tiwi.

Savoring sashimi, I hope that by working to conserve their shared resource, Lagonoy Gulf’s fishers might someday herald the return of the giant bankulis. Now that fish tale should be worth the wait.

A fisherman shows off a colorful squid lure, used to entice large pelagic predators to bite. A plethora of makeshift items - from dyed feathers and rubber squid to shredded plastic bags - are used to attract and catch tuna, billfish and mackerel. Each fisher has his own formula: "I use a combination of rubber squid and shredded plastic lures, but my real secret is squid ink, which I tie-off in tiny plastic bags. As the lure moves, the squid ink squirts out. Fish find this irresistible," shares Miguel Borres, a grizzled veteran. Though gear has evolved, many fishers still rely on age-old techniques to collect their quarry.  PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

A fisherman shows off a colorful squid lure, used to entice large pelagic predators to bite.
A plethora of makeshift items – from dyed feathers and rubber squid to shredded plastic bags – are used to attract and catch tuna, billfish and mackerel.
Each fisher has his own formula: “I use a combination of rubber squid and shredded plastic lures, but my real secret is squid ink, which I tie-off in tiny plastic bags. As the lure moves, the squid ink squirts out. Fish find this irresistible,” shares Miguel Borres, a grizzled veteran.
Though gear has evolved, many fishers still rely on age-old techniques to collect their quarry.
PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

 Yellowfin Tuna are so-named because of their canary yellow fins and finlets. The torpedo-shaped fish have clocked in speeds of 75 kilometers per hour - almost TWICE the speed of the world’s fastest person, Usain Bolt! PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

Yellowfin Tuna are so-named because of their canary yellow fins and finlets.
The torpedo-shaped fish have clocked in speeds of 75 kilometers per hour – almost TWICE the speed of the world’s fastest person, Usain Bolt!
PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

The most sought-after fish in Bicol's Lagonoy Gulf is the Yellowfin Tuna. A fisher shows off a handsome 39-kilogramme fish. Two decades ago, fishers caught a 196-kilogramme Yellowfin - the largest caught in the Gulf. Classified by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) as near threatened, Yellowfin Tuna sport metallic blue backs, golden flanks and a silver belly. Sickle-shaped dorsal and anal fins, hued bright yellow, grant them their name.  They form schools with other tuna species and sometimes with dolphins. While most fish have white flesh, tuna tissue hosts loads of myoglobin, which efficiently oxygenates their systems to give tuna meat a distinctive red hue and mouth-watering texture. This is why they’re so highly sought after. WWF works to conserve tuna stocks in the Philippines through its Partnership Programme Towards Sustainable Tuna (PPTST) project.  PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

The most sought-after fish in Bicol’s Lagonoy Gulf is the Yellowfin Tuna. A fisher shows off a handsome 39-kilogramme fish.
Two decades ago, fishers caught a 196-kilogramme Yellowfin – the largest caught in the Gulf.
Classified by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) as near threatened, Yellowfin Tuna sport metallic blue backs, golden flanks and a silver belly. Sickle-shaped dorsal and anal fins, hued bright yellow, grant them their name.
They form schools with other tuna species and sometimes with dolphins. While most fish have white flesh, tuna tissue hosts loads of myoglobin, which efficiently oxygenates their systems to give tuna meat a distinctive red hue and mouth-watering texture. This is why they’re so highly sought after.
WWF works to conserve tuna stocks in the Philippines through its Partnership Programme Towards Sustainable Tuna (PPTST) project.
PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

 Smaller fish such as scad and mackerel comprise the majority of fishers' subsistence hauls. PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

Smaller fish such as scad and mackerel comprise the majority of fishers’ subsistence hauls.
PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

A fisherman rests after unloading his craft's catch.  Thousands fish under the shadow of Mayon Volcano, whose rich volcanic nutrients fuel blooms of plankton - the essential base of the marine food pyramid. PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

A fisherman rests after unloading his craft’s catch.
Thousands fish under the shadow of Mayon Volcano, whose rich volcanic nutrients fuel blooms of plankton – the essential base of the marine food pyramid.
PHOTO COURTESY OF WWF-PHILIPPINES

 

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Dining Out

Checking Sky Seafoods in Caloocan

With Bongbong Marcos leading the country into never-ending price increases, more affordable places like Sky Seafoods will gain more traction, for sure. But… is cheap always better when it comes to good food?

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Thanks to the never-ending price increases at the time of Bongbong Marcos, sa panahon ngayon, ano nga ba ang halaga ng ₱1,000 kung ang kilo ng kamatis pa lang ay lampas ₱200 na? And so when we see what we think are good deals, like steaks for around ₱500, lumalaki yung mata natin.

And this is how we discovered Sky Seafoods, known for offering pretty-looking affordable steaks and seafood in Caloocan City.

So… how was our experience of it?

Una: The place is over an hour away from the City of Manila, where we came from. And this is also already using the expressways. Meaning, allocate extra time as well as extra budget for the tolls just to check this place.

Ikalawa: No, they don’t accept credit cards. And at least when we went there, GCash wasn’t working, either. Bring cash when you visit; else be troubled by searching for ATM or whatever.

Ikatlo: Some of the staff couldn’t care less if you’re there or not. As an example, we had a hard time asking for information about the nearest ATM so we could get cash. Once the orders were served, the waiters were, at least, attentive. Truth: We wanted to walk out na, yeah… but since we spent time driving there, we’re stuck into thinking that we may as well just give the place a try na lang.

Ika-apat: Located at the corner of two streets, the place itself was… not bad. High-ceilinged, the place was well-ventilated, properly laid out, and have good AC (a few tables actually requested for from air-conditioners to be turned off because it was getting too cold). Just be warned about the toilet – i.e. it’s clean, yes, but it looked like this was just added as an afterthought (complete with those blue tubo/pipes, et cetera).

Finally: How was the food? We ordered Surf & Turf (ribeye steak with creamy garlic shrimp, ₱788); Steak & Pasta (₱395); regular fries (₱65); and kilawing tuna with rice (₱229). So…

  1. At least the fries here were not bad, since they didn’t get soggy as Jollibee’s fries could get.
  2. The creamy garlic shrimp was also okay; not overcooked and so not rubbery at all.
  3. The tuna was okay for Arthur. But for me – who came from Mindanao, not too far from General Santos City, the tuna capital of the country – it needed more asim/sourness. But the rice that came with it was really good.
  4. The steaks were the big disappointment, though. We got thin slabs of meat that were not well-seasoned, and seemed like they were pounded too much. Add to that the buttery fats na natutulog so that – by the end of the meal – they made what we were eating undesirable.

Lots of people came and went to Sky Seafoods while we were there (some even reserved tables). Which should tell you of how popular this place is/has become… perhaps particularly for those in the area. I say: Good for them.

Alas, it’s always to each his/her own.

And nope… this one isn’t in our list of babalikan anytime soon.

With Marcos leading the country, more affordable places like Sky Seafoods will gain more traction, for sure. Let that not define what’s good, though.

Sky Seafoods is located at Magat Salamat corner Lapu-lapu St., Urduja Village, Barangay 172, Caloocan City. Contact 0945 182 3990 for more information.

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Destinations

Siquijor Island is the PH’s top emerging destination – Agoda

Siquijor Island is a hidden gem located in the Central Visayas region of the Philippines with growing appeal for international travelers, particularly from China, South Korea, the United States, Australia, and Germany.

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Siquijor Island has emerged as the fastest growing destination for attracting international travelers visiting the Philippines, according to digital travel platform Agoda. The travel platform’s New Horizons list further reveals Bohol to be the top trending destination for Filipino domestic travelers and Hanoi, Vietnam to be emerging among Filipinos traveling abroad.

Agoda’s New Horizons ranking, which is released annually, compares the accommodation booking ranks of the two previous years to identify the highest climbers in both domestic and international travel.

Siquijor Island is a hidden gem located in the Central Visayas region of the Philippines with growing appeal for international travelers, particularly from China, South Korea, the United States, Australia, and Germany. Known for its mystical reputation, pristine beaches and lush natural beauty, the island sets itself apart from its more widely known counterparts like Boracay, Siargao and Palawan. Travelers can experience the island’s unique healing therapies and local shamanic practices, including during the annual Healing Festival held during Holy Week, or enjoy its many white sand beaches, dramatic sunset views, enchanting caves and waterfalls, and breathtaking coral reefs and marine life.

Meanwhile Bohol, also located in the Central Visayas region, is gaining popularity among domestic travelers. Known for its stunning natural attractions, rich cultural heritage, and unique wildlife, Bohol offers a blend of adventure and relaxation. Travelers can marvel at the iconic landscape of the Chocolate Hills, enjoy the beaches in Panglao, cruise along the Loboc River, and encounter the island’s tarsiers, one of the world’s smallest primates.

For Filipino travelers traveling abroad, Hanoi is rising in popularity. With the first direct air route between Vietnam and Philippines launched earlier this year as well as increased flight routes between Manila and Hanoi, Filipinos can enjoy increased connectivity when traveling to Vietnam. Hanoi’s historic landmarks, colonial architecture and thriving food scene offers a unique blend of the traditional and modern. Rising interest from Filipino travelers offers a positive uptick for tourism in Hanoi following the floods and typhoons in Northern Vietnam this year.

Michael Hwang, Country Director Philippines at Agoda said, “The rising popularity of Siquijor and Bohol opens up new horizons for travelers to experience the charm of the Philippines’ lesser-known destinations. Agoda is proud to support efforts to promote these secondary destinations. It’s exciting to also see Filipino travelers showing more interest in Hanoi, especially with the increased flight connectivity in Vietnam. Wherever their journey takes them in 2025, Agoda is committed to helping travelers see the world for less.”

Looking at the top emerging destinations for Asian travelers combined, it is Shanghai that tops the New Horizons list. The Chinese metropolis is followed by Jeju (South Korea), Paris (France), Nha Trang (Vietnam), and Fukuoka (Japan).   Travelers preparing for their travel plans for 2025 are encouraged to check out Agoda’s great value deals on over 4.5 million holiday properties, more than 130,000 flight routes, and over 300,000 activities and experiences that are available on the platform.

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Dining Out

Head to Escobar’s if you want affordable not-too-expensive steaks… and long queues

In search of a steak venue that’s affordable and not bad-tasting? Escobar’s is worth considering… if you’re willing to put up with waiting.

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We have cows, yes, but steak isn’t a Pinoy staple food. We’re more bound to use those beef cuts for nilaga (boil), or kaldereta or menudo than grill/pan-fry/broil them. And so yeah… grabbing steaks isn’t a “usual” activity of many, and so it’s also not that easy for many of us to discern not-bad yet not-too-expensive steak houses.

@outragemag Out on an #LGBT date? @escobarsphilippines means pila and waiting = affordable #steak ♬ original sound – outragemag

Here’s a kicker: Too many vloggers recommend this or that place, claiming this or that’s the best (in the Philippines, or the world, or… ever). And yet they end up obfuscating our choice because too many of them were fed for free, or were paid to say good things even if what they ate is s.h.i.t.

And so here we are, checking Escobar’s in Quezon City.

And let’s be blunt here.

  1. The branch we went to was small (after checking another one that was similarly small). So expect a queue… a long queue when you get there, particularly during peak hours (which would be basically when you need to eat). You can actually pre-order stuff, but anything ordered will still only be prepared when you’re already seated.
  2. Ambiance? This is a busy place – e.g. singing a “happy birthday” for a client in one table actually ends up as a singalong for the entire venue. And so this place isn’t ideal for romantic dates or something… more for families (that’s if you can get a table for a big party), or tropa, or to eat out with someone you’ve already been involved with for some time (that is, not necessarily in need to pa-cute in a private space anymore).
  3. The staff’s “present”. I dropped a fork, and before I can say “ate”, a replacement was provided. But then again this is to be expected since the place is quite small; meaning, too, that while the staff do not mean to be intrusive, they’re everywhere all the time.
  4. The food, the food… is not bad. Salad sells for ₱210, but you really just get pepino, kamatis, olives, and carrots. At least fresh. And the vinaigrette is tasty. The pasta is similarly malasa, and you can tell na di tinipid sa sahog. As for the steaks, they’re well-seasoned (thankfully). And considering that some of them sell for around ₱500 lang, they’re actually not (too) thin. If you don’t want to be served with pre-slices steak pala, inform the staff when you order (I personally abhor when the mantika of sliced steak starts to ‘sleep’ na since grasa isn’t yummy for me).

Babalikan? Yeah, why not. But for those who’d visit, habaan ang pasensiya. Muni-muni rin: Is this steak worth wasting my time in the queue? Only you can answer that after assessing if tiis-pila is worth at Escobar’s.

Escobar’s – with the bar visited located at 42 Sgt. Esguerra Ave, Diliman, Quezon City, Metro Manila – is open from 10AM to 12AM. For more information, visit their website (https://escobarsphilippines.com/).

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