Destinations
Siquijor: Island of fire and magic
John Ryan Mendoza discovers the simple joys that can be had in magical Siquijor.
The island of Siquijor in Central Visayas has always mystified me as a kid because of a memory of one Halloween special of a weekend TV show that showed a man who was able to make paper dolls dance on their own. Numerous local films and stories have always portrayed this country’s third smallest province to be one of the top destinations for mananambals (folk healers) and other mystical arts. Desperate to escape the sweltering summer heat of Metro Manila and to answer long unanswered curiosities, an invitation to the island from a gay couple from Cebu City was finally my chance.
Reaching this Island of Fire or Isla de Fuego, as it was called during early Spanish times, could be done through flying or sailing to its bigger island neighbors, Negros, Cebu, Bohol, or Mindanao.
I flew to Cebu City and rode for three hours with my friends to Liloan (South Cebu). To commute, one has to take a bus bound to Liloan at the South Bus Terminal and the fare for non-aircon buses is about P 162 and P 200 for air-con buses.
At the Liloan port, P62 is paid for the terminal fee and the 30 minute ferry ride to Sibulan (Negros Oriental). From Sibulan pot, an P11 jeep ride can be taken to Dumaguete city. At the Dumaguete Port, one can choose between the Delta Fast Craft and GL Shipping Lines Ferry to Siquijor. The ride costs P160 and would take roughly an hour.
Upon arriving at the Siquijor port, the sight of the clear turquoise waters of a white sand beach was one awesome welcome. We then headed to U.Story Guest house in the village of Tag-ibo, San Juan. For P1, 900 per night, we stayed at a charming bungalow made of indigenous materials that exuded a very relaxing tropical ambiance. I just coiled and dozed off at the porch cushion the whole afternoon while enjoying the calming sea breeze and serene atmosphere of the surrounding flower gardens.
Their bar-restaurant boasts an array of French-Filipino cuisine that would cater to both foreign and local palates. Having the same indigenous construction, wide openings for the sea breeze and view, and adornment of artworks from India, Africa, and all other parts of the world, this place is one unique hang-out.
The U.Story guesthouse is perched upon a rock cliff and a concrete stairway that conveniently leads down to the clear waters and corals below. It is a different feel from a white sandy beach but on high tide, it still is one refreshing dip and a sight for snorkelers.
When it comes to sunsets, this part of Siquijor would just take one’s breath away. Starting late afternoon, the sky’s colors then start to shift. Hues of blue, yellow, orange, and gold transform into unique canvases that change every few minutes until the night sets in. These dreamlike and picturesque sights are indeed a must see for all.
Apart from seas and sunsets, the island offers much more sights to visit. We rented motorbikes for P300 per day and sped off to our first stop: Lola Conching.
Lola Consolacion Achay is one of the island’s remaining bolo-bolo healers. Bolo-bolo, in the old Visayan language, means “bubbles.” We found her living in a bahay kubo with a videoke “waiting area” in the village of Tag-ibo. She was already busy with a middle-aged local who complained of her sore eye. A tourist from Croatia then arrived after us.
Lola Conching had three basic tools: a black stone, a drinking glass, and a six-inch bamboo tube called bagacay. She blew bubbles into the glass and hovered it around the patient’s body, most frequently to the area of complaint. When it was my turn, I had an up-close observation of the clear water turning mysteriously murky and then the sudden appearance of onion-like skins as she blew bubbles in the glass. The session lasted for about six minutes and ended when the recent water refill did not turn cloudy anymore. The closing ritual was a whispered Latin prayer while oil was rubbed to my forehead and chest. There wasn’t any rate of payment, any amount of donation will do.
Our motorbike journey then covered just some of the few spots worth visiting such as the century-old balete tree, Cambughay falls, Bandilaan Natural Park (highest point in the island), and the century old churches. Given much more days, beach hopping at the various white sand options, cliff jumping at Salagdoong beach, swimming at the natural spring parks, visiting other home-based folk healers, and spelunking in the Cantabon, Eugenia, Dacanay, Tagmanocan, and Baljo caves would have been additions. Most of these adventure options have no entrance costs at all. Just find your way there though a map and enjoy.
Driving a motorbike around the island was a breeze as there was virtually no traffic at most times and routes. We have been able to find other white sand beachfront accommodations in San Juan such as the End of the World that charges P400 per room and The Bruce that offers cottages with kitchen amenities and have short and long stay rates (P1,200 for two per day/P1,500 for four per day).
This idyllic island had me spellbound of its natural charm. A short stay proved to be inadequate to immerse oneself in the mysteries that abound. Siquijor indeed has its wide array of magic (natural or otherwise) to trance all explorers and seekers to return.
Destinations
Checking the charm of Baguio City’s Café by the Ruins
Googling eating venues in Baguio City will give you a lot of must-check places. And among those that, consistently, enter lists of recommended restaurants is Café by the Ruins. We #LGBT checked to see why.
Here’s an interesting thing with Baguio City: the city approved the cutting of actual trees to allow the building of a car park (we remember, SM), but too many of its local restaurants now build forests within its venues. Oh My Gulay! comes to mind, though also Café by the Ruins, this famed restaurant that occupies the lot containing the ruins of the Garden Theater outdoor cinema that was built in 1912 by Hubert Phelps Whitmarsh.
We dropped by for a quick meal… and here are some observations from us.
@outragemag Why is #CafebytheRuins in #Baguio still popular (even if it can be pricey)? We #LGBT ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine
Una, this place is easy to find. Yeah, you can take a taxi and tell the driver the place’s name; everyone knows where it is, so your driver could not possibly get lost. But you can also just choose to walk there. It is not too far from Burnham Park, and right beside the city hall of Baguio.
Ikalawa, not much has changed design-wise for the restaurant; meaning, if you’ve been there before, it looks – basically – the same now. You enter a wooden gate, traverse those hanging plants, and then enter a largely wooden two-floor venue. Welcoming you would be the famed breadshop, and then there are tables and seats for those who’d want to dine.
Ikatlo, slight slow ang service. Though that may just be because this place is always busy. But at least our servers did know their products. And they’re honest, too (e.g. “The Thai Beef Salad you want can be offered without some of the key ingredients, so I won’t recommend it.”).
Ika-apat, how was their food?
- We wanted to “wash away” the taste of the steaks we had at Sizzling Plate, so we ordered the Filet Mignon (thick slice of beef tenderloin wrapped in bacon, and then served with salad and marble potatoes, ₱520). Properly cooked so it remained juicy, this one didn’t disappoint.
- The Creole Pasta (pasta with shrimp and mushroom cream sauce with paprika, ₱380) was okay naman, though they didn’t have chili flakes (only Tabasco sauce), thus limiting our desire to make this spicier. It was filling… even if the portion was on the smaller side.
This restaurant is one of those with too many items in the menu, so – yeah – you’re bound to find something you’d like. Note that some of the goods here are costly – e.g. Breads sell from ₱60-₱180, Banana Turon for ₱120, Suman at Tsokolate for ₱210, and Dinuguan with Puto for ₱240. But these are among those that helped make this restaurant known.
Googling eating venues in Baguio City will give you a lot of must-check places. And among those that, consistently, enter lists of recommended restaurants is Café by the Ruins. This is not surprising, really, because this place can be described as largely consistent. So, yeah, while the breads there remain too expensive, everything else is… generally… okay, considering they taste better-than-okay anyway.
Go check… or just join us, as we look for more lafangan venues…
Café by the Ruins is located at 25 Shuntug Rd., Baguio City. For more information, contact 0966 528 9072 or email cafebytheruins@gmail.com.
Destinations
Checking the artsy offerings of Baguio’s Tsokolateria Artisanal Café
Tsokolateria Artisanal Café is this artsy resto in Baguio City, offering artisanal offerings. We #LGBT checked to see if it’s worth visiting.
We were looking for breakfast in Baguio City, and, while Googling, among the most recommended was Tsokolateria Artisanal Café… which we decided to check since too many of the other options were still closed (some opened from 9.00AM onwards, which was entering brunch hours already).
Now… how was this place for us?
@outragemag #LGBT checking the artsy but pricey #artisanal food of #tsokolateriabaguio Tsokolateria Artisanal Café in #Baguio ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine
Una, the place isn’t hard to find naman. Coming from the marketplace in Baguio, you – basically – just walk along Session Road, lampas ng SM Baguio and The Baguio Cathedral of Our Lady of the Atonement. It could be tedious particularly for the non-fans of walking (reminds you of the hilly roads of San Francisco), but… you can just consider this as your exercise, too.
Ikalawa, the actual place is okay naman. The place, which combines two venues – Tsokolateria and Pamana – is non-airconditioned yet well-ventilated, with lots of seating available. There are elements that may not be to everyone’s liking – e.g. those scary statues in front of the restaurant (particularly the ones seating on the stairs, which could be mistaken for real people), as well as those cheap-looking plastic plants hanging on the ceiling of the venue.
Ikatlo, the workers were okay naman. They were able to explain what’s on the menus (and how Tsokolateria differed from Pamana), and they weren’t intrusive at all (they let you be, as needed).
Ika-apat, how was the food?
- The Adobo Overload (chicken adobo topped with roasted cacao garlic and crispy adobo flakes, ₱535) was not maalat/salty, and so okay. But – even with the add-on well-seasoned veggies as side dish, as well as the black rice – you really don’t get much. So you’re basically paying for a deconstructed version of adobosilog for over ₱500.
- The House Waffle, Bacon Belly Arugula & Eggs (₱485) was interesting – e.g. the waffles were fried (this one’s yummy); those cherry tomatoes were fresh (another plus); the eggs, although small, were well done; and that meat was… bagnet-like.
Don’t get us wrong: This place is not bad at all. But – considering its asking prices – it’s not great, either. This is an okay-to-consider venue if you’re willing to cough up more than you should, more than is deserved so you can try food repackaged to be artsy.
Try lang… or discover others… as we do as we search for more lafangan venues.
Tsokolateria Artisanal Café is located at Igorot Stairs, Upper Session Rd., Baguio City. For more information, contact 0927 323 6513 or email inquiry@happyconceptgroup.com.
Destinations
Revisiting Sizzling Plate along Session Road in Baguio City
We checked (for the second time) one of Baguio City’s popular steakhouses: Sizzling Plate.
Truth: The first time we visited Sizzling Plate along Session Road in Baguio City, we were surprised. For a not-classy (and some may even say shabby and karinderya-looking) steakhouse, what the place offered were actually better-than-okay food – e.g. the steaks were properly cooked, the fries crunchy, the soup not runny, and so on.
@outragemag Looking for cheap #steaks in #Baguio? We #LGBT ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine
Truth: Sometimes, for good memories to stay good, don’t revisit to recreate them… which we unfortunately did by revisiting Sizzling Plate during a recent Baguio City trip.
And, sadly, the second time was such a letdown we wondered why we even liked it when we visited it for the first time.
Harsh? Perhaps… but let us explain why…
Una, this place – which was established in 1978 by couple Mike and Edna Anton – is very easy to find, as it sits right in the middle of Session Road, which is in the very center of Baguio City’s commercial area.
Ikalawa, décor-wise, the place looks rustic… like a Filipinized version of some rancher’s diner filled with wooden chairs and wooden tables and so on. Let it be said, however, that this place could use an upgrade – e.g. it looks dated (the “before” if this is to be renovated by Chef Gordon Ramsay in Kitchen Nightmare), has dated stuff (like those flimsy cutlery), and so on.
Ikatlo, the workers are still nice. We remembered some of them from our past visit, and while they – understandably – couldn’t remember all their diners, they were still pleasant while serving (e.g. could explain what’s on the menu, delivered the correct orders, and so on).
Ika-apat, how was the food?
- Y’all get free mushroom soup… which is, basically, a watery concoction that tasted like it was made from powder mix. Particularly when Baguio City gets cold, this should suffice to warm you while waiting for your food.
- All steak meals came with fries (stuffed under the slab of meat, so that when they reached us, we just got burnt potato slices that were too soggy to be called fries); veggies (though we really just got a few Baguio beans); and Java rice.
- The Australian Porterhouse (₱460) was smaller albeit thicker. Meanwhile, the T-bone Steak (₱420) was bigger-looking and yet thinner. Always remember that with sizzling steaks, the meat gets overcooked – i.e. we ordered medium rare, but by the time we ate, the meats were already well done. Also, both steaks served to us tasted too margarine-y… and too chewy to be enjoyable at all.
In truth, Sizzling Plate continues to be really popular. Understandably so because of: 1. it is historic; 2. it’s location (right in the middle of Session Road in the middle of Baguio City); and 3. cheap goods. But – for us – Baguio City actually has more to offer that should be checked, including alternatives to this venue (e.g. the fillet mignon of Café by the Ruins is same-priced, but way, WAY better). So, puwede magtiis here, or go discover is the advice.
And so off we go as we search for more lafangan venues…
Sizzling Plate is located at 86 Session Rd., Baguio City.
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