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Siquijor: Island of fire and magic

John Ryan Mendoza discovers the simple joys that can be had in magical Siquijor.

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Discovering Siquijor

The island of Siquijor in Central Visayas has always mystified me as a kid because of a memory of one Halloween special of a weekend TV show that showed a man who was able to make paper dolls dance on their own. Numerous local films and stories have always portrayed this country’s third smallest province to be one of the top destinations for mananambals (folk healers) and other mystical arts. Desperate to escape the sweltering summer heat of Metro Manila and to answer long unanswered curiosities, an invitation to the island from a gay couple from Cebu City was finally my chance.

Reaching this Island of Fire or Isla de Fuego, as it was called during early Spanish times, could be done through flying or sailing to its bigger island neighbors, Negros, Cebu, Bohol, or Mindanao.

Discovering SiquijorI flew to Cebu City and rode for three hours with my friends to Liloan (South Cebu). To commute, one has to take a bus bound to Liloan at the South Bus Terminal and the fare for non-aircon buses is about P 162 and P 200 for air-con buses.

At the Liloan port, P62 is paid for the terminal fee and the 30 minute ferry ride to Sibulan (Negros Oriental). From Sibulan pot, an P11 jeep ride can be taken to Dumaguete city.  At the Dumaguete Port, one can choose between the Delta Fast Craft and GL Shipping Lines Ferry to Siquijor. The ride costs P160 and would take roughly an hour.

Upon arriving at the Siquijor port, the sight of the clear turquoise waters of a white sand beach was one awesome welcome. We then headed to U.Story Guest house in the village of Tag-ibo, San Juan. For P1, 900 per night, we stayed at a charming bungalow made of indigenous materials that exuded a very relaxing tropical ambiance. I just coiled and dozed off at the porch cushion the whole afternoon while enjoying the calming sea breeze and serene atmosphere of the surrounding flower gardens.

Their bar-restaurant boasts an array of French-Filipino cuisine that would cater to both foreign and local palates. Having the same indigenous construction, wide openings for the sea breeze and view, and adornment of artworks from India, Africa, and all other parts of the world, this place is one unique hang-out.

The U.Story guesthouse is perched upon a rock cliff and a concrete stairway that conveniently leads down to the clear waters and corals below. It is a different feel from a white sandy beach but on high tide, it still is one refreshing dip and a sight for snorkelers.

When it comes to sunsets, this part of Siquijor would just take one’s breath away. Starting late afternoon, the sky’s colors then start to shift. Hues of blue, yellow, orange, and gold transform into unique canvases that change every few minutes until the night sets in. These dreamlike and picturesque sights are indeed a must see for all.

Apart from seas and sunsets, the island offers much more sights to visit. We rented motorbikes for P300 per day and sped off to our first stop: Lola Conching.

Discovering SiquijorLola Consolacion Achay is one of the island’s remaining bolo-bolo healers. Bolo-bolo, in the old Visayan language, means “bubbles.” We found her living in a bahay kubo with a videoke “waiting area” in the village of Tag-ibo. She was already busy with a middle-aged local who complained of her sore eye. A tourist from Croatia then arrived after us.

Lola Conching had three basic tools: a black stone, a drinking glass, and a six-inch bamboo tube called bagacay. She blew bubbles into the glass and hovered it around the patient’s body, most frequently to the area of complaint. When it was my turn, I had an up-close observation of the clear water turning mysteriously murky and then the sudden appearance of onion-like skins as she blew bubbles in the glass. The session lasted for about six minutes and ended when the recent water refill did not turn cloudy anymore. The closing ritual was a whispered Latin prayer while oil was rubbed to my forehead and chest. There wasn’t any rate of payment, any amount of donation will do.

Our motorbike journey then covered just some of the few spots worth visiting such as the century-old balete tree, Cambughay falls, Bandilaan Natural Park (highest point in the island), and the century old churches. Given much more days, beach hopping at the various white sand options, cliff jumping at Salagdoong beach, swimming at the natural spring parks, visiting other home-based folk healers, and spelunking in the Cantabon, Eugenia, Dacanay, Tagmanocan, and Baljo caves would have been additions. Most of these adventure options have no entrance costs at all. Just find your way there though a map and enjoy.

Driving a motorbike around the island was a breeze as there was virtually no traffic at most times and routes. We have been able to find other white sand beachfront accommodations in San Juan such as the End of the World that charges P400 per room and The Bruce that offers cottages with kitchen amenities and have short and long stay rates (P1,200 for two per day/P1,500 for four per day).

This idyllic island had me spellbound of its natural charm. A short stay proved to be inadequate to immerse oneself in the mysteries that abound. Siquijor indeed has its wide array of magic (natural or otherwise) to trance all explorers and seekers to return.

A registered nurse he may be, but Cagayan de Oro City-based John Ryan Nual Mendoza is an ardent believer of holistic living - as such, he advocates, for instance and among others, the use not only of Western approaches to healing, but also of the more traditional methodologies that may be learned from the hilot, babaylan, et cetera. As he said, in life, "why be limited, when you can have a more full/complete life by embracing just about everything?"

Destinations

Checking Llanfair PG, the town that’s long in name and not much else

Introducing #llanfairpwllgwnyngyllgogerychwyrn or #llanfairpg, the town with the longest name in #Europe, as discovered during this #LGBT #Wales trip.

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When in Wales, one of the must-check places – at least based on tourist recommendations – is this Anglesey town famous for its very long name:the Llanfairpwllgwyngyll, located across the Menai Strait, a short drive or train ride from Bangor.

How’s the place?

@outragemag Introducing #llanfairpwllgwnyngyllgogerychwyrn #llanfairpg, the town with the longest name in #Europe, as discovered during this #LGBT #Wales ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Una, let’s get one thing out of the way: Don’t come here expecting to see or do much. People just come here to take pics of the town’s name… basically.

The name is the one, if not the only attraction.

As FYI: Even locals have a hard time pronouncing the name. We asked someone to do that for us. We were told, though, that there’s a shortened version, Llanfair PG… which isn’t a mouthful na.

Ikalawa, the name was popularized in the 19th century, mainly as a publicity stunt. The town, of course, supersedes this popularized name.

Ikatlo, the name is usually translated to: St. Mary’s Church in the hollow of the white hazel near a rapid whirlpool and the Church of St. Tysilio near the red cave.

The meaning actually revolves around local landmarks, including:

  • St Mary’s church, 
  • the “Swellies” (the pool/hollow of the whirlpool in the Menai Strait)
  • St Tysilio’s church

Ika-apat, in truth, this isn’t the longest name for any place.  Even Bangkok’s ceremonial name is longer. Then there’s that town in New Zealand.

But this is commonly described as the longest one-word place name in Europe. 

So… since the name was crafted for tourism, exactly how many tourists come over? Roughly 200,000 a year. Doesn’t seem much, really, but considering the “offerings” of the place, marami na.

Besides, compared to the tourist numbers under the Marcos administration, marami na yan (!).

But off we go for more LGBTQIA+ rampa

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Destinations

Underground discovery: From Heathrow, commute using the Underground to reach central London

You arrive in Heathrow, the main airport in London, and – like many tourists – you need to head to the center of London for your accommodation. You have many options, like catching a taxi. But you can just take the “regular” train, the so-called Underground.

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So… you arrive in Heathrow, the main airport in London, and – like many tourists – you need to head to the center of London for your accommodation. There are, of course, a number of transportation options, from grabbing a cab to taking the express train. 

There’s an option that isn’t always advertised: that is, for you to just take the “regular” train, the so-called Underground.

Special thanks to Ms Kayla Garcia for this tip, of course.

@outragemag New to #London and traveling from #Heathrow to the city center? No need to overspend via #taxi or #expresstrain; just take the #LGBT #Underground ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Una, the underground is, as the name suggests, underground. From the arrival area, follow the signs leading to the “Underground”, which is around five minutes walk from where you’d exit after collecting your luggage.

Ikalawa, be careful: it’s basically on the same area as the Express trains, so if you erroneously entered their area, you’d be forced to spend more.

Ikatlo, yung bayad, nagbabago depending sa exact location you’re going to, and time, too. But naglalaro lang sa 6 pounds pababa… usually. Which is much cheaper than the Express trains by a lot. Add na lang to shopping ang natipid… unless anak ka ng politician na male-maletang pera ang dala mo while undergoing your tax-funded UK education…

And ika-apat, you may buy tickets from those machines at the entrance of the station. But this is London, cashless is usual. Pay using PayWave; tap mo lang credit or debit card mo, keri ka na.

Kung rich ka and money is not a problem… avail ka ng less local mode of transportation, kaya mo yan. But for those who believe commercialization of service sucks, and – in the case of transportation – bettering public transport makes better sense than shelling out cash to make rich people in the transportation industry even richer, then… here’s how many locals travel to and from Heathrow. Huwag na pretentious and avail na

And off we go for more  LGBTQIA+ rampa

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Destinations

Off to Bulacan only to be underwhelmed (and stressed) at The Beef Deli-Malolos

#LGBT checking #steakhouse The Beef Deli-Malolos in #Bulacan, only to be underwhelmed and stressed.

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Now and then we head outside of Metro Manila to check some of the culinary offerings of wherever we end up at. This is why we know that Silang in Cavite has a LOT to offer (even if it may be considered provincial, and even more than, say, Las Piñas that is part of Metro Manila). And this is why we know that Antipolo has 24-hour venues even if Quezon City or the City of Manila “sleeps”.

The intent to discover affordable yet not-bad steaks – in particular – was what led us to The Beef Deli – Malolos, which claims to offer meats “from Australia to your plate” in Bulacan.

@outragemag #LGBT checking #steakhouse The Beef Deli-Malolos in #Bulacan ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Una, the place is easy to find naman… particularly for those with private vehicles. It is at the vicinity of the entrance to NLEX lang din, so you can access it if you’re getting off or about to enter the expressway (as we did).

Ikalawa, the venue was masikip, tight. Largely, this was because of not-ideal lay-out that seemed to prioritize being able to accommodate more customers than customer comfort. While there, expect ingay, too; you’re seated too closely to other customers you can eavesdrop.

Ikatlo (and I took this down in my notes, too), the service was REALLY slow. We had to remind the waiters to: set our table (we were seated for a while already), provide us with cutlery, and give us some water. It didn’t help that the two servers who approached us did not know what’s in their menu.

Ika-apat, the food was… hit and miss, with more misses than hits.

The Sweet & Beefy Spaghetti (₱650) was… more sweet, less beefy. Imagine Jollibee’s spaghetti, now make it even sweeter, and you’d get an idea of what was given to us. Particularly since there’s less beef here, and more sausage slices. The accompanying bread also tasted burnt, not grilled.

The Absolutely Meatzza Pizza (₱550) was not just not as meaty (considering its name), but was also too sweet, with a tinapay-like dough.

For the steak, we got the two-for-the-price-of-one Premium Ribeye (₱1,560), cooked MR. Here’s the thing: the steak was okay naman, as it seemed properly seasoned and properly grilled. But when served to us, it was already cold, like it waited in the kitchen. So natulog na ang mantika when served, and slight kadiri na in the mouth.

We didn’t finish the food, so we had them wrapped.

Now, to add drama: when we arrived home, we found that the steak we asked to wrap wasn’t in the take-home bag. I, personally, was annoyed; we didn’t exactly have a good experience there, and then… they didn’t even pack what we already paid.

I contacted the number of the company that’s listed online, and – this is a great part – I received a proper response. I was told that, after some tracing, the leftover food was found. I was also told that, without charging me, they will have the leftover delivered to us the next day.

Yes, after reheating the leftover steak, they had it delivered to us… without charging us (as if I should be thankful for that, LOL). And NOT that I was expecting anything else, but the meat was all they sent; overcooked (due to reheating) stale steak that we didn’t get to enjoy anymore because of The Beef Deli – Malolos. No apology for the bad experience via some kind of compensation like… a serving of French fries man lang.

The place is okay-appearing naman, TBH. But Bulacan has a lot of venues to check, so we’re giving this a hard pass for revisiting na muna. And so off we go in search of more lafangan venues…

The Beef Deli – Malolos is located at G/F Unit 7-10, Andan Enterprises, Inc, 3598 MacArthur Hwy, Malolos, 3000 Bulacan Province. For more information, contact 0905 283 8461 or email beefdelimalolos@gmail.com.

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