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Northern (gustatory) pride…

How “original” can an offering be the moment you take them from the very contexts that made them thrive to begin with?

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Every region (if not every town) in the Philippines has their own gustatory offerings that sort of define them – e.g. Bicol Express in, obviously, Bicol; bagnet in Ilocos; guapple pie of Negros; and so on…

This is why – when one is just in Metro Manila – when seeing all those “original such-and-such” offerings of various restos, supposedly with their preparations learned from the regions these offerings originated from, one can only really… frown. Because how “original” can an offering be the moment you take them from the very contexts that made them thrive to begin with?

This is the thought that stays in the mind when thinking of Ilocos’ empanada and okoy, particularly after one has tried those offered in Vigan City’s Nanang Sion.





WHAT’S THERE

There are actually two branches of Nanang Sion (as per the apo or grandchild of Nanang Sion herself) – one is by the plaza/near the church in downtown Vigan City (this is the “main” branch), and another one in one of the streets parallel to Crisologo (that tourist trap portion of the city, where just about every tourist has his/her pic taken). The former is a more “formal” resto; but the latter – if I may say so – has more character, with the apo’s collections of everything old (vintage, if you must).

There are wooden tables, and chairs and benches scattered on two floors, and adding to that “being in an old place” vibe/feel.

But – more apparent – are the owner’s collections of… just about everything, from rebulto (statues of holy people or saints) to scooters to bikes to kalesa (horse carriage) wheels, and so on. And while many are placed on pedestals, there are some that are made to be – literally – parts of the place, e.g. the bicycles that were cemented on the walls.

If it’s “character” you want, then this one’s worth a check, indeed.

WHY GO THERE

But – recognizing that ambiance is but part of the attraction – if there’s one thing that will make you come here, this can be summed in one word: FOOD.

Must try are:

  1. Empanada (super special, P65) – I’ve traveled to various parts of northern Philippines a lot of times, and while there, many always tell me to try the local empanada. But – considering the number of people who recommends empanada – I can’t fathom the fuss about it. In my mind (and from what I tasted) it’s nothing really special, just a combo of longganisa/chorizo with either scraped green papaya or thinly chopped cabbage, plus egg thrown in, and then wrapped in dough before being fried.
    And then I tried Nanang Sion’s empanada, and I now sorta get the hype. I’d say this: if done really well, empanada is really tasty. And this one (so far) has been the tastiest empanada from somewhere north of the Philippines for me.
  2. Okoy (with egg and longganisa, P55) – This one is also a surprise because okoy, as we know it, is nothing but fried: shrimps with veggies (some use carrots or kamote), and then coated in flour. Now be honest, how many times have you eaten okoy and actually complain with that hair-like strands from the shrimp heads? With Nanang Sion, though, the okoy is actually… succulent, with the shrimp juicy and (thanks to the longganisa) tasty.

The servings are big, BTW. So if you end up unable to finish what was given you because you’re too full already, don’t tell me I didn’t warn you…

If hungrier and in search of “real” meals (not merienda or snacks), there are “silogs” – e.g. bagnet (P150) and longganisa (P120), and the “common” corned beef (P90), siomai (P90), hotdog (P90), et cetera.

If it’s just me, though, I’d say stick to the food that has been helping define Ilocos. That way, you avoid getting disappointed…

And so, yes, empanada and okoy are good starts…

WHY AVOID IT

To start, heading to Vigan isn’t in everybody’s list of to-do. And truth be told, even when driving (instead of commuting), going there takes a while. So for those who have… aversion to long trips, then this isn’t for you.

If- I suppose – you’re a local and already have had enough empanada and okoy to last you a lifetime, then…

IN THE END…

But – let me say this – the next time someone mentions “original such-and-such” to you, and you’re having that offering outside its original context, it’s always better to have them where they (first and originally really) made them. That way, you’d be able to tell how “real” or “fake” the offering has become.

And as far as some of the best northern gustatory delights are concerned, I’d say head to Vigan City. And give Nanang Sion a try while there; for less than P100, you’d understand why “eating local” continues to be the best way to appreciate delicacies…

Nanang Sion is at Plaridel St, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur. Vigan City isn’t THAT big of a place. Ask around NOT just for the location of Nanang Sion, but also where else you can grab what’s good there. I’ve encountered shy Ilocanos who demur when speaking with us outsiders; but almost always, they try as much as they can to help out and lead you where you wanna go or – for that matter – where they think you ought to head to best enjoy being there…



Believing that knowing on its own is not good enough, "you have to share what you know, too", Mikee dela Cruz gladly shares through his writing. A (BA) Communication Studies graduate, he had stints with UNAIDS, UNICEF and Ford Foundation, among others, writing "just about everything". Read on as he does some sharing through Zest Magazine.

Destinations

Checking the charm of Baguio City’s Café by the Ruins

Googling eating venues in Baguio City will give you a lot of must-check places. And among those that, consistently, enter lists of recommended restaurants is Café by the Ruins. We #LGBT checked to see why.

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Here’s an interesting thing with Baguio City: the city approved the cutting of actual trees to allow the building of a car park (we remember, SM), but too many of its local restaurants now build forests within its venues. Oh My Gulay! comes to mind, though also Café by the Ruins, this famed restaurant that occupies the lot containing the ruins of the Garden Theater outdoor cinema that was built in 1912 by Hubert Phelps Whitmarsh.

We dropped by for a quick meal… and here are some observations from us.

@outragemag Why is #CafebytheRuins in #Baguio still popular (even if it can be pricey)? We #LGBT ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Una, this place is easy to find. Yeah, you can take a taxi and tell the driver the place’s name; everyone knows where it is, so your driver could not possibly get lost. But you can also just choose to walk there. It is not too far from Burnham Park, and right beside the city hall of Baguio.

Ikalawa, not much has changed design-wise for the restaurant; meaning, if you’ve been there before, it looks – basically – the same now. You enter a wooden gate, traverse those hanging plants, and then enter a largely wooden two-floor venue. Welcoming you would be the famed breadshop, and then there are tables and seats for those who’d want to dine.

Ikatlo, slight slow ang service. Though that may just be because this place is always busy. But at least our servers did know their products. And they’re honest, too (e.g. “The Thai Beef Salad you want can be offered without some of the key ingredients, so I won’t recommend it.”).

Ika-apat, how was their food?

  1. We wanted to “wash away” the taste of the steaks we had at Sizzling Plate, so we ordered the Filet Mignon (thick slice of beef tenderloin wrapped in bacon, and then served with salad and marble potatoes, ₱520). Properly cooked so it remained juicy, this one didn’t disappoint.
  2. The Creole Pasta (pasta with shrimp and mushroom cream sauce with paprika, ₱380) was okay naman, though they didn’t have chili flakes (only Tabasco sauce), thus limiting our desire to make this spicier. It was filling… even if the portion was on the smaller side.

This restaurant is one of those with too many items in the menu, so – yeah – you’re bound to find something you’d like. Note that some of the goods here are costly – e.g. Breads sell from ₱60-₱180, Banana Turon for ₱120, Suman at Tsokolate for ₱210, and Dinuguan with Puto for ₱240. But these are among those that helped make this restaurant known.

Googling eating venues in Baguio City will give you a lot of must-check places. And among those that, consistently, enter lists of recommended restaurants is Café by the Ruins. This is not surprising, really, because this place can be described as largely consistent. So, yeah, while the breads there remain too expensive, everything else is… generally… okay, considering they taste better-than-okay anyway.

Go check… or just join us, as we look for more lafangan venues…

Café by the Ruins is located at 25 Shuntug Rd., Baguio City. For more information, contact 0966 528 9072 or email cafebytheruins@gmail.com.

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Destinations

Checking the artsy offerings of Baguio’s Tsokolateria Artisanal Café

Tsokolateria Artisanal Café is this artsy resto in Baguio City, offering artisanal offerings. We #LGBT checked to see if it’s worth visiting.

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We were looking for breakfast in Baguio City, and, while Googling, among the most recommended was Tsokolateria Artisanal Café… which we decided to check since too many of the other options were still closed (some opened from 9.00AM onwards, which was entering brunch hours already).

Now… how was this place for us?

@outragemag #LGBT checking the artsy but pricey #artisanal food of #tsokolateriabaguio Tsokolateria Artisanal Café in #Baguio ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Una, the place isn’t hard to find naman. Coming from the marketplace in Baguio, you – basically – just walk along Session Road, lampas ng SM Baguio and The Baguio Cathedral of Our Lady of the Atonement. It could be tedious particularly for the non-fans of walking (reminds you of the hilly roads of San Francisco), but… you can just consider this as your exercise, too.

Ikalawa, the actual place is okay naman. The place, which combines two venues – Tsokolateria and Pamana – is non-airconditioned yet well-ventilated, with lots of seating available. There are elements that may not be to everyone’s liking – e.g. those scary statues in front of the restaurant (particularly the ones seating on the stairs, which could be mistaken for real people), as well as those cheap-looking plastic plants hanging on the ceiling of the venue.

Ikatlo, the workers were okay naman. They were able to explain what’s on the menus (and how Tsokolateria differed from Pamana), and they weren’t intrusive at all (they let you be, as needed).

Ika-apat, how was the food?

  1. The Adobo Overload (chicken adobo topped with roasted cacao garlic and crispy adobo flakes, ₱535) was not maalat/salty, and so okay. But – even with the add-on well-seasoned veggies as side dish, as well as the black rice – you really don’t get much. So you’re basically paying for a deconstructed version of adobosilog for over ₱500.
  2. The House Waffle, Bacon Belly Arugula & Eggs (₱485) was interesting – e.g. the waffles were fried (this one’s yummy); those cherry tomatoes were fresh (another plus); the eggs, although small, were well done; and that meat was… bagnet-like.

Don’t get us wrong: This place is not bad at all. But – considering its asking prices – it’s not great, either. This is an okay-to-consider venue if you’re willing to cough up more than you should, more than is deserved so you can try food repackaged to be artsy.

Try lang… or discover others… as we do as we search for more lafangan venues.

Tsokolateria Artisanal Café is located at Igorot Stairs, Upper Session Rd., Baguio City. For more information, contact 0927 323 6513 or email inquiry@happyconceptgroup.com.

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Destinations

Revisiting Sizzling Plate along Session Road in Baguio City

We checked (for the second time) one of Baguio City’s popular steakhouses: Sizzling Plate.

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Truth: The first time we visited Sizzling Plate along Session Road in Baguio City, we were surprised. For a not-classy (and some may even say shabby and karinderya-looking) steakhouse, what the place offered were actually better-than-okay food – e.g. the steaks were properly cooked, the fries crunchy, the soup not runny, and so on.

@outragemag Looking for cheap #steaks in #Baguio? We #LGBT ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

Truth: Sometimes, for good memories to stay good, don’t revisit to recreate them… which we unfortunately did by revisiting Sizzling Plate during a recent Baguio City trip.

And, sadly, the second time was such a letdown we wondered why we even liked it when we visited it for the first time.

Harsh? Perhaps… but let us explain why…

Una, this place – which was established in 1978 by couple Mike and Edna Anton – is very easy to find, as it sits right in the middle of Session Road, which is in the very center of Baguio City’s commercial area.

Ikalawa, décor-wise, the place looks rustic… like a Filipinized version of some rancher’s diner filled with wooden chairs and wooden tables and so on. Let it be said, however, that this place could use an upgrade – e.g. it looks dated (the “before” if this is to be renovated by Chef Gordon Ramsay in Kitchen Nightmare), has dated stuff (like those flimsy cutlery), and so on.

Ikatlo, the workers are still nice. We remembered some of them from our past visit, and while they – understandably – couldn’t remember all their diners, they were still pleasant while serving (e.g. could explain what’s on the menu, delivered the correct orders, and so on).

Ika-apat, how was the food?

  1. Y’all get free mushroom soup… which is, basically, a watery concoction that tasted like it was made from powder mix. Particularly when Baguio City gets cold, this should suffice to warm you while waiting for your food.
  2. All steak meals came with fries (stuffed under the slab of meat, so that when they reached us, we just got burnt potato slices that were too soggy to be called fries); veggies (though we really just got a few Baguio beans); and Java rice.
  3. The Australian Porterhouse (₱460) was smaller albeit thicker. Meanwhile, the T-bone Steak (₱420) was bigger-looking and yet thinner. Always remember that with sizzling steaks, the meat gets overcooked – i.e. we ordered medium rare, but by the time we ate, the meats were already well done. Also, both steaks served to us tasted too margarine-y… and too chewy to be enjoyable at all.

In truth, Sizzling Plate continues to be really popular. Understandably so because of: 1. it is historic; 2. it’s location (right in the middle of Session Road in the middle of Baguio City); and 3. cheap goods. But – for us – Baguio City actually has more to offer that should be checked, including alternatives to this venue (e.g. the fillet mignon of Café by the Ruins is same-priced, but way, WAY better). So, puwede magtiis here, or go discover is the advice.

And so off we go as we search for more lafangan venues…

Sizzling Plate is located at 86 Session Rd., Baguio City.

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